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From what you have told me, it sounds like your transmission could be down a bit of fluid. The reason I suspect this is the cause of your K3’s problem is simple: once you get past second, everything works correctly. And, before you hit second, there’s a thump/jerk.
What is happening is that your tranny is down just enough fluid — maybe three-quarters-of-a-quart to about a quart — to leave the first and second gears above good transmission fluid flow until the pressure builds with in the device.
Once the pressure has built, the transmission fluid is forced into the gears and the tranny performs, more or less, as it should.
I think that you should pickup a quart or two of your car’s brand of tranny fluid — each vehicle uses a specific type that is detailed in the owner’s manual. Then, find a quiet spot, if you don’t have an available driveway. Check the fluid level and replace what is lost by slowly adding it through the filler tube It is also the tube that holds your transmission dipstick.
That should take care of the issue. Let me know what happens, I’m interested in hearing.
Need a replacement transmission? Quality transmissions are hard to find. Free estimate to your email.Electronics are enough to make you cry, sometimes. In your particular transmission, I think you have eight or 10 control modules acting on it. Each control module is a computer. That’s in addition to the ECM (engine control module — the mastercomputer) and the TCM (transmission control module). And, then there are the sensors, like the MAP (Mass Air Pressure) and MAF (Mass Air Flow), in addition to the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) and on and on.
From the sound of it, I think it is more than likely the TCM that has gone bad, although, if your engine is performing poorly, it could be the ECM, though I don’t think that’s the case or you’d be telling me about it, too.
I hate to suggest starting over, but, here’s what I would do. I would go back to square one, insert the OBD-II probe and get a new analysis run. Then, look for any of the following codes that might point where the problem lies. I know there are a lot of numbers, but I think it will help you find the problem, or at least you have a start here and if you need a few dozen more codes I can find them for you. Keep me in the loop. Here’s the list:
4L60E Code (DTC) P0218 Transmission Fluid Over Temperature
4L60E Code (DTC) P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit Intermittent
4L60E Code (DTC) P0711 TFT Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
4L60E Code (DTC) P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor Circuit High
4L60E Code (DTC) P0716 Input Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
4L60E Code (DTC) P0717 Input Speed Sensor Circuit Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P0719 Brake Switch Circuit Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P0724 Brake Switch Circuit High
4L60E Code (DTC) P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
4L60E Code (DTC) P0741 TCC System Stuck Off
4L60E Code (DTC) P0742 TCC System Stuck On
4L60E Code (DTC) P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P0751 1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance
4L60E Code (DTC) P0753 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P0756 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Performance
4L60E Code (DTC) P0758 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1520 Gear Indicator System
4L60E Code (DTC) P1521 Transmission Engaged At High Throttle Angle
4L60E Code (DTC) P1522 Park/Neutral To Drive/Reverse At High RPM
4L60E Code (DTC) P1523 Electronic Throttle Control Throttle Return
4L60E Code (DTC) P1527 Transmission Range/Pressure Switch Comparison
4L60E Code (DTC) P1700 Transmission MIL Request
4L60E Code (DTC) P1701 Transmission MIL Request Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1705 P/N Signal Output Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1740 Transmission Torque Reduction Request Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1743 TP Signal From ECM
4L60E Code (DTC) P1760 ECM Supply Voltage Interrupted
4L60E Code (DTC) P1779 Engine Torque Delivered To TCM Signal
4L60E Code (DTC) P1780 Park/Neutral Postion (PNP) Switch Circuit Engine Torque Signal Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1790 Transmission Control Module Checksum
4L60E Code (DTC) P1791 Transmission Control Module Loop
4L60E Code (DTC) P1792 Transmission Control Module Reprogrammable Memory
4L60E Code (DTC) P1793 Transmission control Module Stack Overrun
4L60E Code (DTC) P1795 CAN Bus-Throttle Body Position
4L60E Code (DTC) P1800 TCM Power Control Relay Circuit Open
4L60E Code (DTC) P1801 Performance Selector Switch Failure
4L60E Code (DTC) P1804 Ground Control Relay
4L60E Code (DTC) P1810 TFP Valve Position Switch Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1811 Maximum Adapt and Long Shift
4L60E Code (DTC) P1812 Transmission Over Temperature Condition
4L60E Code (DTC) P1813 Torque Control
4L60E Code (DTC) P1814 Torque Converter Overstressed
4L60E Code (DTC) P1815 Transmission Range Switch-Start In Wrong Range
4L60E Code (DTC) P1816 TFP Valve Position Switch-Park/Neutral With Drive Ratio
4L60E Code (DTC) P1817 TFP Valve Position Switch-Reverse With Drive Ratio
4L60E Code (DTC) P1818 TFP Valve Position Switch-Drive Without Drive Ratio
4L60E Code (DTC) P1819 Internal Mode Swtich No Start, Wrong Range
4L60E Code (DTC) P1820 Internal Mode Switch Circuit A Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P1822 Internal Mode Switch Circuit B High
4L60E Code (DTC) P1823 Internal Mode Switch Circuit P Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P1825 Internal Mode Switch Illegal Range
4L60E Code (DTC) P1826 Internal Mode Switch Circuit C High
4L60E Code (DTC) P1831 PC Solenoid Power Circuit Low Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1833 A/T Solenoids Power Circuit Low Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1835 Kick-Down Switch
4L60E Code (DTC) P1836 Kick-Down Switch Failed Open
4L60E Code (DTC) P1837 Kick-Down Switch Failed Short
4L60E Code (DTC) P1842 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Low Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1843 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit High Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1844 Torque Reduction Signal Circuit Desired By TCM
4L60E Code (DTC) P1845 Transmission Gear Ratio Output Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1847 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit High Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1850 Brake Band Apply Solenoid Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1851 Brake Band Apply Solenoid Performance
4L60E Code (DTC) P1852 Brake Band Apply Solenoid Low Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1853 Brake Band Apply Solenoid High Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1860 TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical
4L60E Code (DTC) P1864 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1868 Transmission Fluid Life
4L60E Code (DTC) P1870 Transmission Component Slipping
4L60E Code (DTC) P1871 Undefined Gear Ratio
4L60E Code (DTC) P1873 TCC Stator Temp. Switch Circuit Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P1874 TCC Stator Temp. Switch Circuit High
4L60E Code (DTC) P1875 4WD Low Switch Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1884 TCC Enable/Shift Light Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1886 Shift Timing Solenoid
4L60E Code (DTC) P1887 TCC Release Switch Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1890 ECM Data Input Circuit
4L60E Code (DTC) P1891 Throttle Position Sensor PWM Signal Low
4L60E Code (DTC) P1892 Throttle Position Sensor PWM Signal High
4L60E Code (DTC) P1893 Engine Torque Signal Low Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1894 Engine Torque Signal High Voltage
4L60E Code (DTC) P1895 TCM To ECM Torque Reduction Circuit
This is a mechanical problem, not a transmission-related issue. From the sound of it, I’d have the left front suspension parts checked ASAP. It sounds like a classic case of balljoint failure. If this is the case, then, you have to have it repaired quickly. If not, you may find that you are driving on three wheels — for a moment, it does happen — while your vehicle’s now-separated left front wheel bounces and bounds through traffic, posing a threat to others (not too long ago, a driver was seriously injured when a tire crashed through the windshield, smashing it).
I’d honestly have all suspect pieces replaced just for peace of mind.
Looking at your Stealth’s problem it’s pretty clear that, while you may not like hearing this, that the torque converter is failing over. Since it most likely is the trouble-spot, your only move is to replace it at a cost of about $1,900 without labor.
You can be pretty certain the problem isn’t with the solenoids because your vehicle does go into gear, albeit not easily, but it still does. If the solenoids were shot, then you’d lose the gears in question and it really wouldn’t shift at all.
It is possible that the clutches and their related bands are shot but I don’t think this is the case because your Steath’s tranny is still going into first, second and other gears, again, a bit stiffly, but it is doing it.
And, yes, it could be the valve body. A check valve may have failed and the transmission fluid isn’t reaching the right spot so you could be losing your tranmission here.
Given the major probability and the other possibilities, it makes sense to replace the transmission. A good rebuilt will cost you about $2,300 or so, however, you’ll be adding in another $800 of labor on top since the transmission replacement is rated as an eight-hour job in the labor guides. The total cost should be about $3,200.
I know you probably wanted to hear that you could simply swap out the solenoids or some other easy fix like changing the transmission fluid. However, that’s not the case. Instead, you are looking at replacing the tranny with a rebuilt.
Let me know what happens, I am interested.
I am willing to bet that if you had the transmission torn down, which you’ll have to have done, anyway, because your truck isn’t moving that when you look at the face of the clutch plate, you will find that the material is probably either glassy or looks like a shiny type of metal because the plate face has been burned.
Why did it burn? The answer is quite easy to figure out. In this situation, the tensioning spring on the throwout bearing has weakened over time. The throwout bearing and related parts allow the clutch plate face to separate from the the flywheel, separating the devices, allowing you to shift.
When the throwout bearing spring loosens to the point that the force on the pressure plate that actually pushes the clutch plate face and flywheel together so the transmission works lessens and the clutch can slip.
Most of the time, you would have seen sloppy shifting and evidence of slippage if the clutch plate face was failing, but, if it happens at one time, then you will find yourself in the situation you are in.
The only fix for this is replacing the clutch plate and face along with the throwout bearing and spring as they are weaker too. This should cost roughly $1,450 with parts and labor, however, when the tech is finished, you’ll be driving again.
Please let me know what happens. I always like to find out.
It sounds like an excellent deal. Good luck and thanks for the followup.
Thanks for the question, but my question to you is: what’s it doing exactly? I know the 4L60E has its share of issues, but your question is rather sketchy.
Here’s the thing, it could be, and most likely is, a case of a set of bad clutches and band, or it could also be a case of a torque converter with a bad set of hiccups. I honestly think it’s the first.
To explain, when your Silverado is revving to get into gear, a whole series of things happens in the transmission from the torque converter setting up the right flow through the valve body and gearing and then to the clutches/bands, the final stop before the tranny engages (like a manual transmission’s clutch plate/friction plate linkage).
I think that one set of clutches is definitely on the way out and the bands that work with it are also pretty sketchy, too. (They’d have have to since they have probably been working together since you put the truck on the road under your ownership.)
I don’t have any reason to think you have done any major work on the transmission because if you had had the work done, then I think it would have been in your complete description of the problem.
Of course, you can’t rule out the torque converter angle simply because a hiccuping torque converter may act just as you describe.
Have your technician take a look at the transmission to see what else may be involved. I think you’ll find that one or more of the problems I described is affecting the transmission. And, since the transmission will be open so you can have it diagnosed, have the technician obtain a rebuilt transmission, if you plan to keep the pickup on the road. I know it will cost about $3,200 with labor and all. But, once you have spent it, you’ll have a pickup that’s ready to do another 200,000. And, you won’t have to spend all the money that a new pickup requires (take a look, they’re not cheap!!).
Seriously, do have the rebuilt dropped in as I think it’s your best — and only — logical choice.
Let me know what happens, please, as I really do want to know.
First, the clunk you heard is the problem that sent our Yukon into limp-home mode. A longtime feature in vehicle transmission, limp-home mode is there to provide two things. The first is that your SUV can remain rolling long enough for you to get home — or your destination. Once you are there, you can then call a ramp trunk and have the Yukon brought into the shop for service. The second reason limp-home mode is there is so you can slowly (the gears you have available don’t answer the “need for speed.”) drive your car to the shop for repair. If you opt for this method, you are saving the cost of a tow-in to the dealership.
With that said, though, there are several problems that can put your SUV into limp-home. I’ll list them out for you (they are in no particular order of importance):
*** One or more of the solenoids that designate the gear your truck should be in have failed. Hopefully, this is the problem — it’s tough to say without seeing and tearing down the transmission — because it is one of the least expensive fixes. There are two solenoids located on the valve body of the transmission. One of them is external and sits on the jacket, while the other only requires the drain and removal of the transmission case to access. Each one will cost about $175 to replace. What may have happened here is that a solenoid failed, throwing you Yukon rather violently into limp-home (the thud). With labor, replacing both solenoids is a $650 job.
*** One control module or another has failed, again, rather aggressively — the thud which is more than likely when it jarred out of top gear. Just afterward, an error code was thrown to the engine control module and/or the transmission control module. The code shows what electronic part of parts failed. Since there are possibly 16 or more control modules (computers) or sensors that are used to keep things working correctly in the transmission, there are many failure candidates. However, if this is the area of failure, then your technician should be able to pinpoint the error quickly enough by using an OBD-II diagnostic scanner and reading the error codes. The issue with an electronic error is reaching the sensor or module that may have failed. The cost of your tranny fix depends on how much of the transmission has to be torn down to access the electronic device. I can only guesstimate the cost at this point, but it can be anything from $675 for an easily accessible device to upwards of $2,000, if the device is inside. The cost is mostly labor.
*** This problem might be a band or clutch failure. Either one of them can cause the type of failure you described and then can send your transmission into limp home mode. The fix here is replacing the clutches and/or bands. The cost will be between $2,450 and $3,000. The caveat with this fix is that there might be other damage to the transmission that has occurred, as well. If there is then it is a good idea to drop in a rebuilt, rather than trying to find each and every issue. Doing a piecemeal repair is a guarantee that you will overpay by several thousand dollars and there is no guarantee that the transmission won’t fail again.
*** The torque converter may have failed. A torque converter failure can easily cause the type of transmission behavior that you have described. Because of the importance of the torque converter and due to its complexity, it might be a good idea to drop in a rebuilt. It will save you lots of time and aggravation.
The four suggestions that I have listed here are the tip of the iceberg. There could easily be multiple problems involving electronic and mechanical systems that will cause the problem you describe. My thought here is that it’s time to cut to the chase, replace the transmission with a rebuilt and enjoy your Yukon this summer.
Let me know what happens, please. I’d like to know the results. You can also contact me with more questions if you would like. I’m around most of the time, except this week when a brief trip took me away from the keyboard.
It’s more likely the clutch plate or the friction plate. One or the other is likely worn out and is pretty much spinning, rather than taking up when the clutch is engaged.
The way a manual works — broadly — is that you press on the clutch pedal and the throwout bearing lifts and separates the clutch plate and the friction plate. With the engine free-wheeling and the transmission stopped, you shift gears, let the clutch go and you’re in business.
If the clutch plate or the friction plate faces are worn, then you get the spinning situation I mentioned. I experienced the same type of performance in an old Opel Kadett L that I used to own. The clutch plate was shot and no matter what I did, the little 39-horsepower horizontally opposed four could barely move the little wagon. (Believe it or not, the engine was pretty well matched to the weight of the wagon and performance was suprisingly good). Since I was in college at the time and needed the transportation I took the vehicle in to friend’s shop and we did the work (okay, I “supervised” and he did the job — I was paying him after all) but I will admit that I was pretty accurate in my diagnosis of the problem.
He replaced the throwout bearing just to be sure and gave the gears a once-over. Everything worked out and I drove the Open for another five years until I had graduated and was moving into my full-time career. It was a nice vehicle and served me well.
I hope this helps. I think you should get your car into the shop asap to have it fixed. It will cost you about $750 for the work and parts, depending on the part of the country you are in. Please let me know if there’s anything else I can help you with. I do enjoy reaching out to readers.
I don’t think it is the automatic overdrive on your model that’s gone bad. I suspect that the problem is in the transmission chain that begins with the input shaft and gearing — loosely, the input shaft, gearing, turbine assembly, torque converter and the like. Somewhere in that chain, a device has gone bad.
Since you indicated that there was slipping going on, it does narrow things down a bit. Yes, it is possible that that the torque converter has gone bad and is not setting up the proper transmission fluid flow to the valve body and clutches and bands.
Indeed there are so many possibilities that I would suggest this: Rather than trying to go piece by piece through the transmission chain, replacing as you go — or not, as the case may be — and then moving to the next, put in a replacement rebuilt transmission.
The top reason for this is that it will likely solve a very frustrating problem quickly and positively. More importantly, though, it will actually keep your costs down. If you replace a transmission piece-by-piece, you will be paying only the part but also the labor, again and again. The tranny will have to be opened and closed every time and then it will have to be torn down to get to the next part and the next. By the time you have finished, supposing you have stumbled accidentally on the offending part quickly, you will have paid roughly three times the cost of a replacement transmission ($13.2K USD).
Simply replacing the transmission with the proper rebuilt (most “new” transmissions are simply rebuilt devices using old cases) will save you lots of money and will fix the problem once and for all.
Please let me know what happens as I am interested in the outcome.
Go back to the mechanic and suggest that he looks at the solenoids in the valve body. If one of the solenoids — there are usually two — that is involved with selecting the proper gear has been damaged (a wire pinched or cut), then that device will read as a bad unit and your VW will go into limp-home mode.
This is the first thing that hit me when you said the Golf had gone into limp-home mode after the valve body was replaced. If the solenoids weren’t swapped out, or at least taken out and put aside and then reinserted, then it is possible that one or both of them may be damaged.
I think that when you point out the problem and suggest the answer (will more then suggest but keep it respectful) is in the solenoids that you may find something interesting will happen (I can’t be sure, but it is possible), you may find the job done for free. The reason, quite frankly, is I suspect the technician decided to reuse the solenoids from the former valve body to speed things up since he probably figured they were working. The operative word here, though, is were, as I suspect that when they were pulled out of the old valve body something was damaged. Be somewhat emphatic (but respectful) when you suggest the job might have been prevented if new devices would have been used and suggest that it might be good customer service to bite the bullet and let you have the solenoids gratis. Let me know what happens.
It sure sounds like it is in limp mode to me, but why? It could be any of a dozen or so solenoids and sensors used with the transmission. Likewise, it could also be the transmission control module or the engine control module, itself.
Frankly, it seems more like an electronic issue to me than anything else. As you noted yourself, the Cube starts and runs nicely, it just won’t get out of its own way — limp mode.
To find out, if you can stand the slow-speed drive, take your Cube to a local dealership (yes they tend to be higher-priced, but they do have all the latest diagnostic software and that’s what you need right now). Let them know what happened and be sure you ask them, before you leave, possibly, to have a diagnostic scanner hooked up to your Cube and a diagnostic routine run — ask the service manager to handle this personally (you will get a hearing, believe me as dealerships are sensitive to customer satisfaction — it is a key metric. Most people don’t think this is true. However, it is, really!).
Be certain you wait for the results and I will bet you a jelly doughnut that you will find codes flashing up that indicate a sensor or solenoid has failed.
The reason I suspect it is an electronic piece is the nature of the failure. You drove the Cube 3,000-plus miles and in that time nothing happened. Then, you park at home and the next morning, bingo. If a transmission mechanical part had failed, you would likely be hearing the whining more loudly or there would be another indication such as slipping.
There’s a silver lining to this. The Cube is a great small car that should get you another 100,000 miles easily, so it is worth the $400 or so to replace and fix the electronic part. Let me know what happens. I am interested to see what the shop says.
Have you had any word yet?
Just a thought on what might have happened — I was thinking about it just now. Sometimes, for whatever reason, things just happen in transmissions and you cannot figure out why. There’s a legit name for this, it’s called intermittancy. In other words, a transient occurrence happened that was too quick to be logged by the engine control module (ECM) or the transmission control module (TCM).
I know it sounds like the good old UFO explanation — guys in little spacesuits with phasers running around causing havoc — but it really isn’t. Something occurred in your transmission that was brief. It was aggravating and it was nerve-wracking.
With that said, intermittents are seldom found — as the name implies, the are brief events — but when they happen they are very real.
My thought as the culprit in this goes back to either a solenoid or sensor. If the solenoid fails the fire, for whatever reason, your Jetta may seem like it is slipping. By the same token, if a sensor, like the TPS (throttle positioner sensor) or the MAF (mass airflow) fails to tell the TCM to do something at the proper time by registering an incorrect value, you can have the same results.
Thanks for keeping me up to date. I hope everything helped.
You’ve ruled out one possibility with the flush and filter change. It was a great idea. However, that doesn’t explain why your transmission has remained in “limp-home” mode. “Limp-home” mode occurs when there’s major transmission problem either starting to occur or occuring.
With that said, your next step has to be to a shop with an OBD-II scanner. The chances are good when the diagnostic scanner runs through its routine that you will see a couple of numbers pop out. The numbers will likely be:
P1778
P1715The good news is that these numbers indicate an electronic device has failed which has to be replaced. It also means that like as not your Sentra’s transmission is in good shape. The fault codes you are looking at are for the transmission control module.
Since your transmission has just been flushed and refilled the chances are very good that the new tranny fluid has shown a problem that was hidden by the old fluid. In this case, the transmission control module — the brains of the device — has to be changed out.
Once you have had your tech do that job — $750-$900 parts and labor — you should find that your transmission will be working again for many more miles of driving.
Let me know if this works. Oh, by the way, the great news here is that you’ve saved about $2,300 since you won’t have to replace the transmission with a rebuilt.
You are going to have to have your Toyota checked with a diagnostic scanner before you go further. The reason is that from the sound of it there is a sensor that is dropping out and throwing lots of bad data to both the transmission control module and the engine control module.
At a guess, I think that a solenoid has gone bad. The solenoids actually determine which gear your Toyota will run in at what time. If a solenoid is gone, then it is quite possible that your Toyota will act this way. However, when you say that disconnecting the battery terminals and reattaching them resets things for a time, then I have to suspect that it’s deeper than the solenoid.
One of the eight to 12 sensors that control the operation of your Toyota has gone and needs to be replaced. You just have to find out which one. Give me an update when you know.
Your question is a bit cryptic, even for me! Can you help me out a bit by giving me a bit more to go on? Let me ask:
1. Is the manual working at all?
2. Is the Neon moving?
3. When the click happens are you shifting the vehicle?
4. When the click happens are you also pressing the brake (this could be very important)?
5. When the click happens are you depressing the clutch (not shifting, just pressing)?
6. If you are shifting from one gear to another, does it click?If you could answer the questions I’d have a lot more to go on and I’ll be able to help you better.
First, just to satisfy my, would you have the transmission fluid level checked? The reason I am asking for that move is that many times transmission fluid that is down just a bit can make your transmission act as it was having a major internal problem.
With that said and second area I would have looked at, and like as not the move that will yield some information, it is having a diagnostic reading taken with an OBD-II scanner. The scan will find any transmission-related error codes that have been stowed. I think the scan will likely yield one or more error codes.
The chances are good you will find that there may be an intermittent in one of the solenoids that control your gear selection. It may be that it is causing the gear to slip and out at times. Or, it may be that one of the electronic sensors associated with your transmission — the Mass Air Flow, Mass Air Pressure, Throttle Positioning Sensor and the like. If one of the sensors is sending bad information occasionally or is checking out once in a while, then it is possible that your transmission will perform as it is doing.
The other area where your problem may lie is in the “limp-home” mode itself. “Limp-home” mode is there to keep you rolling should your transmission develop a problem. Usually, “limp-home” will leave you one or two gears forward and reverse. If the problem is especially bad you may only have a low gear available to keep you rolling. Now, if the transmission control unit — the computer that runs the transmission — has gotten flaky then it is possible that it may be throwing error conditions at the tranny at times or reading them. If that’s the case, then your VW will perform as you indicate.
Here are the steps you should take to find out the answer (if our suggestions don’t help):
1. Go to a service area
2. Ask them to run a diagnostic of your transmission
3. Discuss the error findings with the technician, if any errors turn up
4. Have the problem areas fixedWorst case, you may be looking at a rebuilt transmission which will cost in the vicinity of $3,400 or so. But, I don’t think that’s the case. I think you will find that the problem is likely in the solenoids or an electronic subsystem whose repair is a lot less. How much less will it be? It’s tough to say, but figure at least $1,200 to $1,600.
Please keep me in the loop on this as I am intrigued by your problem.
There are a couple of possibilities here. The first is that the transmission control unit is not working correctly, preventing the transmission from going into gear. You can find out if this is the case by having a technician run a diagnostic with a OBD-II scanner. The chances are good that when you get the read out you will see one or more transmission-related errors.
If it is the TCU, then your best course of action is to have it reset. You can try it yourself, though I wouldn’t recommend it, unless you feel very comfortable doing this, by disconnecting the negative cable from your battery and keeping it off for several minutes. Once the time has passed, carefully reconnect and wait to see what happens. The TCU should have been reset and the problem cleared from the electronics.
If the problem persists, of course, don’t forget to take a look at the tranny fluid level. Many times, that is the prime culprit. Indeed, I would recommend checking it right now, if you have the time. Don’t forget to let the C280 come up to temperature and then take your reading. If it is the transmission fluid, you will see that it is on the lower side of the dipstick, likely reading add fluid. If it is, carefully add fluid until the transmission is refilled. Don’t use anymore than necessary because an overfilled transmission causes its own headaches.
One other place to check is on the mechanical side of things. It is quite possible there is a problem with the differential. The driveshaft and powertrain are working correctly, but the differential is not doing its job by taking the input from the driveshaft and turning it into output for the half-shafts to which it connects. If this is the case, you are looking at about a $1,800 job, depending on dealership or shop location.
Please let me know what happens as I am on here several times daily to keep track of things so I will answer shortly. I also like to see what happens and enjoy helping readers.
It sounds as if your “new” Explorer has gone into a form of “limp-home” mode. In “limp-home,” the transmission shuts down several gears and leaves you with enough movement to get to a service area or home where you can have the SUV towed to a service area.
You can confirm this, when you get the Explorer to a service area, by having the technician plug in an OBD-II diagnostic scanner and read the codes that may be generated. I will bet you dollars to doughnuts that there is an 07XX code or two generated and reported. These are Ford codes for transmission-related problems.
If there is an 07XX code have the technician check the areas suggested because, by and large, they are accurate and can pinpoint a problem. It does take time, though, to get to the trouble spot because the spot usually is deep inside the transmission and getting there requires a pretty thorough teardown. that’s the downside. The upside is that when your technician is in the transmission, it’s easier to track down the exact problem.
From your description, though, I think there are three areas to concentrate on:
1. The torque converter: It is possible that the torque converter is going a bit intermittent. When this happens, it can slip a gear or seem to lose a gear, at times. This one is unlikely, though, and I only mention it as a place to point to when you talk to your technician.
2. The solenoids: Your Explorer’s gearing is actually determined by a pair of solenoids that are driven by, among other things, a series of sensors that monitor Air Flow, Barometric Pressure and such. When everything lines up correctly, an electronic signal is sent from the Explorer’s Engine Control Computer (ECC) telling the solenoids to choose the next gear in series. It is possible that one or both of the solenoids has started to go and you are experiencing the first stages. The good news here is that this is a relatively quick and inexpensive — for a transmission — job at about $400 for solenoids and labor.
3. Valve body: It is possible that one or more the check valves (little pop-off valves that are little more the spring-loaded ball-bearings) is sticking at times. When this happens the flow of transmission fluid that works through the valve body — another device that determines your gearing — is disrupted, taking out one or more gears. If the problem clears quickly, then it is likely the valve body. Since the valve body is easily accessible, it is a relatively inexpensive fix, depending on the number of check valves involved. It can cost about $850 in labor and parts to fix this device.
That’s my initial thinking on your problem. Let me know what your technician says. I’d like to hear.
Let me know!!
You have a good feel for your vehicle, even though it is new to you. Of course, you do have to have it checked out thoroughly because there’s nothing worse than sitting at the side of the road on a nice afternoon with an SUV whose engine turns over and runs but with a transmission that let’s you down.
I’d take the truck into a transmission specialty shop as soon as possible and have a complete diagnostic run. Though you may think that the engine control module and related systems only pickup data related to the vehicle’s engine and mechanical systems. They pick up far more than that.
As the test is run with an OBD-II diagnostic scanner, like as not it will turn up codes that have 07 or a variant in them. If so, it is turning up transmission codes that have to be addressed. Indeed, the more transmission codes it picks up, the narrower the lookup becomes and the more apt the scan is going to get to the bottom of the problem.
In general, though, I think your tranny is exhibiting the start of problems. After all, your vehicle is now nine years old and the transmission has nearly 100,000 miles on it. In car terms, that’s a lot of use. It’s time for a good close look. Let me know what the tech finds.
Let’s see, it’s possible, if there’s too much transmission fluid in the case, that there could be an overpressure situation going on in the transmission. When that happens — not many people look for it as it is easier to look elsewhere — it can cause all kinds of problems, including what you describe. Believe it or not, transmission fluid, because of its composition, acts not only as a fluid, but also as a solid, if conditions are right. At that time, anything in the general area of the “solid” will not work correctly as it is starved for fluid.
My suggestion here would be to look at the transmission fluid level quickly — with your engine properly warmed — to make sure your transmission is not seriously overfilled. In this situation, it can cause as much damage as an underfilled transmission.
Remember, though, this is only one suggestion. Here are some others:
The fourth gear solenoid could be acting up and not firing correctly. There are usually two solenoids in the valve body that control the gearing choice. Their firing sequence controls the actual gear. If one of the solenoids fails to fire in proper sequence, then you will have lost a gear. This is one of the easier fixes in a transmission as the part usually costs about $150 and labor another $140 to diagnose and replace the solenoid.
The clutch for fourth gear may have burned up. If it has then your transmission will react as you describe it. If this happens, by the way, the band is usually shot, as well. This is a major repair as the transmission has to be pulled apart to access the particular band and clutch. Any way you look at it you are likely going to spend the better part of $2,000 to fix this problem.
It is possible that your transmission could be failing in a major way and this is just the first sign. In many ways, the problem you are describing is “limp-home” mode or a form of it. In this mode, a transmission that is experiencing trouble will lose a gear or more, leaving only a forward gear or two and, possibly, reverse, so that you can either get home and have your car towed in from there or so that you can get to a service area. If this is the case, you are likely looking at the replacement of the transmission with a rebuilt that will cost you about $2,400.
It is possible that the culprit, though, could just a sensor such as the MAF (mass airflow) or the TPI (throttle position indicator). To find out if it is just a sensor, have your technician plug in a diagnostic tester and run a check of the engine control module (ECM) to see if there are any transmission codes. If there are, you can have the tech begin the hunt for the problem there.
I hope this helps you out. Let me know what you find as I always interested to hear what happens.
Fair Replacement Transmission Cost by Vehicle
- Use the Year / Make / Model lookup tool to determine what transmission your vehicle has. [transtar]
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Fair Remanufactured Transmission Price Ranges by Transmission Model Updated May 1, 2018
