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Here’s my suggestion: Start from the top! First, take your Mercedes to a good, independent service shop with trained technicians. I honestly would suggest going to a dealer who has NIASE-certified techs and who have access to the latest Mercedes-specific diagnostic software.

Second, I would have them run a complete diagnostic on the unit. I know you have had diagnostics run as you seek specific answers, however, I don’t know if you have taken a systems analysis approach. In other words, look at the whole powertrain as a complete system and then begin your hunt from there. In this way, you can take steps that might otherwise be missed. For example, let’s say you the manual or test manual calls for a test of the engine’s Engine Control Module (ECM) or the master computer for the whole vehicle. This is the system that can listen for up to a dozen reports from subsidiary systems that impact the operation of your vehicle.

As you know, there is a specific transmission control module (TCM) which is responsible for the operation and reporting of the transmission and its subsystems. The interesting thing about this is that if you were to look at a schematic diagram of the reporting systems in relation to the transmission you will likely find that the brakes may be (and do) report to the TCM. Likewise, the emissions system — or parts of it — report to the TCM. The Mass Air Flow sensor and Mass Air Pressure sensor, as well as various wheel-related sensors all report to the TCM in order for it to choose the right gear when certain conditions are met. The Throttle Positioning Sensor and Coolant Temperature Sensor also report to the TCM (the transmission has its own piece of the cooling system in most vehicles).

As you can see the TCM reaches out and touches a number of related systems that actually either report directly to the ECM or to the ECM and other subsystems which is why I think you need the systems analysis approach to the problem.

Quite frankly, I think that if you were to replace the ECM or the ECM and its related boards, I think you would see most, if not all, of the problems that your transmission is experiencing clear up. I say this because, as I see it, there is something compromising the signal flow to the ECM. It could be the ECM itself or one of its related parts.

Since it is likely that this automotive powerhouse is throwing problem, it is more than likely having not only an impact not only on the transmission but also the engine componentry as well. It doesn’t hurt to replace the ECM and it is a relatively inexpensive fix for your transmission problems. If the problems continue, swapping out the TCM is your next move.

Remember, though, all of this should be done after your technician has run down all of the leads that may have been generated by the system-wide diagnostic.

You can put in the rear end because what I think happened is that you’be blown out the banjo box (also known as the universal hub). The reason I say this is simple: You said when you turned left, the Astro just revved and made a grinding sound. This tells me the transmission is okay because it is trying to get power to the rear wheels. The rear wheels aren’t getting the power because the universal joint is fried.

Another telltale here is the way you describe the roll onto the flatbed. If it is jerking regularly, it indicates something is trying to take up gearing, but is slipping.

If it were the transmission, you would find that there would be no grinding sounds at all. Instead, the engine would turn over and run and there would be silence from the transmission. There would be no sounds coming out of the rear end. You might hear the gears trying to engage, but that would be about all you would hear and that would be a whooshing sound, for the most part.

I think you will find that when you swap in the new rear end that things will work pretty well. Just take your time and don’t leave the parking brake on.

I can see why you are getting the solenoid error. I would have to agree that, at least, the solenoid pack for your second/reverse is shot. But — and there are several buts here — there’s a lot more going on, going back to the point where the dealer did the flush.

Of course, you should have the transmission fluid drained and replaced according to the schedule in the owner’s manual. The factory knows how long the fluid will last in the crankcase and, of course, it has to be replaced then.

With that said — and here’s the first but — your dealer had the transmission flushed. Usually, the shop will put a high-pressure hose on one side and blow in a lot of air to clean things out. In a perfect world, that would be the best way to go, but, the high-pressure blast not only strips everything out of the transmission but it can actually damage some of the more delicate components. You probably want to know how this happens and it is simple, the blast picks up all of the good stuff and the bad stuff, like any deposits that may have built up (they can be about as solid as cement) and will blast them through the interior, damaging everything in their path, like turbine blades, clutch packs and anything else. You just can’t tell the depth of the damage. Had the dealer just drained the transmission and then removed the transmission cover plate on the bottom, you would have been a lot better off as everything would have drained away. It is slower but it is safer.

Your dealer said there was an internal problem that caused metal filings to build up. That may be true, but, what caused the shavings to form in the first place? The chances, in my opinion, are very good that when the flush occurred shards of deposit slammed into small parts and damaged the parts, ripping off small pieces of metal which then fell to the bottom of the crankcase and which were then captured by the slightly magnetic transmission pan bolt (it usually captures a lot). Again, the flush started the problem, in my opinion, that is now showing up. In fact, I think it also caused the solenoid failure because of stuff that was dislodged and which may then have relodged around the solenoid itself (there are two, one internal and the other on the valve body casing — I’m talking about the interior one).

Of course, it may not have caused the solenoid failure in this instance. It still could have been part of the failure because a sensor may have been damaged and that damage may have put faulty signals through to the solenoid, causing it to fail. (It’s another but.)

Then, of course, the flush may have stirred up enough gunk from the bottom of the pan to cause one or more of the check valves in the valve body to stick. If that’s the case, you will not only lose the specific gearing to which the transmission fluid was being directed through the valve body, but (another one of those things) it also may have caused further damage as there may have been too much transmission fluid being pushed though one or two gears, while other gears may have been starved for fluid, causing more damage.

I think, by now, you get the drift of my idea. The flush that the dealer pushed through your Equinox’s transmission was like dropping dynamite into a closed space and covering it up tightly. The only result of something like that is basically taking what might have been a relatively easy event and turning it into something a lot more severe.

Overall, though I honestly don’t like saying this, I believe your transmission has failed. I wish it was just limited to the solenoids as they are a relatively inexpensive fix. That said, the flush likely caused a chain of failure within the transmission that has resulted in your Equinox’s need for a rebuilt transmission. It will cost about $3,400.

Here’s a thought: why not show this answer to your dealer and then ask what he will do to help you out with the repair. If he offers to cut the bill by 10 percent, you know you are on to something, however, be aware that dealerships routinely will “give you a break” of about 10 percent to make it appear they are helping out a lot — they’re not really. The reason I think it’s a positive is this: it opens up the whole topic of the dealer contributing a lot more to the replacement of the transmission which was likely messed up by the flush. Flushes are never a good idea, unless the transmission is new or extra clean because there is just too much chance for error.

I would keep pushing the replacement idea with the dealer. If you would like he can contact me through the http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com and I’ll be happy to help with this. I am happy to help.

As to who you should listen to, I think you can see which way my thinking lies. Your mechanic is a great source of information about your van. I’d listen to him (or her) first.

I think you have two problems that are both related to the transmission. In your first example, you indicated the van drives fine but when you come to a stoplight, it shudders a bit when you are taking off down the road. And, then you say you see red stains underneath your minivan.

For starters, I think that, at some point, your transmission was overfilled. You may think this is okay, but it isn’t. The transmission is made to run with — depending on the type, clutches and the like — anywhere between three and six quarts of transmission fluid — most use five.

Each transmission has certain pressure parameters to work correctly. In other words, if your transmission normally runs with five quarts of fluid, it might be running at say six pounds per square in inside (don’t hold me to the exact figures here because I’m describing how things work). If you add an extra quart of fluid, you are adding to the pressure load. In other words, the six pounds may now be nine or 10 or so.

At this level of pressure, the various parts don’t work correctly. In fact, they are forced to work against pressures that are too high and, in some cases, parts that should be open are closed and vice versa. At this time, damage begins to accumulate in your transmission.

I speculate that this is what happened to your tranny. Unfortunately, it is too late to do much about it now.

Because the pressure was too high, I think the torque converter and impeller blades have been damaged as have the clutches and bands. The result is the type of whirring style delay you mentioned.

The only cure for either problem is a rebuilt transmission. If you plan to keep the Dodge on the road and it is in good shape — it is 17 years old, after all — then you will have to make the investment of about $3,400 to replace the current transaxle with a rebuilt. Be aware that the overpressure may have forced the output shafts out of true and they may also be damaged so it is something else to think about (you may not notice the problem as your transaxle (transmission) is used to dealing with output shafts that aren’t true so it performs in a way that feels right to you).

As to the second issue, it is related to the first. Since your transmission has been overfilled, seals may have weakened or blown out. Those seals are on the input and output shafts as well as around the transmission pan.

I suspect that if you look under your transmission you will see transmission fluid dripping from the bead edge of the pan.

Again, there’s major damage here that has to be repaired.

Frankly with what you have described to me, maybe it’s time to think of turning in your old ride on something a bit newer. There are great deals around on 2005-10 minivans that offer a lot for the money. I know it isn’t what you may have hoped to hear, but I am being honest. Let me know what you decide.

I know this your dealer has probably tried this, but, are you sure all of the transmission cooler lines have been run and checked. If there is one thing that your transmission does it is create lots of heat and that heat has to go somewhere. That is why your transmission has its own lines into and out of the radiator core.

One of those lines may be crimped up behind a piece of the undercarriage that your technician may not see. If that’s the case, then there’s no coolant circulating in the jacket around the tranny and the result is overheating and failure. It is also possible that the lines may not be caught and crimped but may just be collapsed inside an armored runner. If you look around the surface of your transmission it is more than likely that you will see several armored hoses. The reason for the armor is pretty evident. If you take your pickup to a worksite (supposing you are in the building trades) and your undercarriage hits, but doesn’t hang up on rock, the armoring protects the heating and cooling lines to the transmission’s waterjacket. Without armoring, the rock could just as easily have torn up the cooling line, which is the reason for the armoring.

The armoring is great but it does mean that if a line collapses, as was mentioned, you would never find it or even think to find it. Have your tech run all of the cooling lines into and out of the transmission jacket to make sure there are no collapsed lines inside the armoring.

Now, let’s suppose that your pickup has a secondary transmission cooler installed because you do lots of hauling (I think you mentioned you were trailering when the problem occurred). One of the recommendations that I would have given you when setting up your truck — I used to help people set up and buy trucks for a dealer — is to be sure that you have a separate tranny cooler installed. It’s like a special radiator dedicated to the transmission and helps keeps things cool so your transmission fluid doesn’t overheat and possibly boil away, leaving you high and dry.

Now, assuming you have the transmission cooler installed, has your technician checked all of the hoses going to and from the tranny cooler. Again, all it takes is one crimped or pinched line or a collapsed line to shut things down. If it is in an unnoticed area, then your technician may never notice it. Let me know what happens on this one, please. I want to see you get your pickup back soon.

Is it flashing in any sort of pattern? If so, could you check the pattern and right down the numbers that it spells out? I can help better then.

Quickly, off the top of my head, I would have to say, check the interface wiring, first, between the transmission control module wiring harness and the engine control module. They both should be wired into a common bus that likely contains other major internal automotive systems. This is part of the CAN or Car Automotive Network also known as the Internet of Cars (IOC). Automakers are letting devices across your car talk through the CAN and if one system is left off the wire, so to speak, it won’t work.

In your case, somehow, I think the transmission control module has been left out of the picture and if it has, your Kia won’t move. Have your technician check into that. And, while he’s at it, have the tech put an OBD-II scanner into the diagnostic port to run down the exact problem and fix it.

Please let me know if this helps? And, let me know the results of the blinks on the Hold light.

My thinking is this: take whatever money you can and invest it in another ride. If you were to put in a new tranny you will never recover the cost. The fact is you will be behind the eight ball on this one by by about $2,400 or so, if you put in a rebuilt. Because of that fact, it doesn’t make much sense. So, the best way out is to either advertise it “as-is,” asking for about double — $1,600 — to pay for your advertising and other costs. The other way is to put an ad in the local shopper; listing a reasonable asking price (where you will get all your money back for your investment in the Honda), and the waiting.

I would list it as an auction on eBay, set a reserve of about $1,600 and then let it go for a week or 10 days to see what the maximum bids are. I am willing to bet you a box of coffee (I like mine regular with milk and sugar, thanks) that when the bidding is over, you have made your price plus some extra.

The only things I wouldn’t do right now are: 1. sell it to a wholesaler or scrap yard because, as you say, you will never get your money out, and 2. put in a rebuilt tranny because you’ll be losing money.

I know I answer questions about transmissions but I have to also be honest with you and that’s my best advice. If the Honda were a bit newer or in better shape, then I would be urging you to invest in the tranny as the Honda will be set for another 200,000 miles (there is a member of my family who picked up a “new” car a couple of years ago — a Honda with nearly 400,000 miles on the odometer — he’s still driving it to work and on family vacations so you can see why I gave you the last piece of advice).

There are a couple of recurring problems that affect Uplanders built from 2005-08. They range from a service bulletin that covers stalling problems similar to the one you are experiencing to valve body problems to dirty transmission fluid.

Briefly, the service bulletin addresses stalling issues that are similar to the one you experiencing in your Uplander. Honestly, it does apply to other parts of the engine, but, there is a mention of the transmission in it so I thought I would add it to the list of possible cures.

My suggestion is this: take your car to a dealer’s service area and ask them to look up all of the service bulletins that apply to your Uplander. If it is a dealer you have used for a time so much the better because the dealership will have a long record of the service procedures performed on your minivan.

There are four technical service bulletins that apply specifically to the transmission. They are:

• 08-07-30-016
• 08-07-30-002
• 08-07-30-013
• 4133 (believe it is internal number)

I won’t go into each bulletin as we have space constraints, but, suffice it to say, one or another of them may apply. The only way to know is to have a technician check.

There have been reports of dirt in the valve body that keeps the check valves from working properly. If the check valves don’t open in sequence, you will find your Uplander either not going into the gear you select, at all. Or, it may act as you have described. If this is the case, a valve body cleaning will put it into shape. It should cost about $450 for the work.

Finally, it is possible that your Uplander is either very low on transmission fluid or dirt has built up in the fluid and it has left deposits on parts of the transmission that are keeping it from working correctly. Also, the dirt may have plugged the transmission filter which stops fluid flow — or cuts it down significantly. If this happens your Uplander won’t budge.

I don’t think your Uplander needs a rebuilt installed — the price range is spot on, by the way. However, it does need work that, in some cases, might tip $800. I know your money is tight and that you may not have the funds. However, at least it is not $3,000 or more. Let me know what happens, please and we will try to figure things out.

More information here on the Uplander:

Chevy Uplander Transmission Problems & Cost | 4T65E