Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
There are any number of reasons your Uplander might go into limp-home mode, but if I were a betting person, I’d put my money on the clutches/bands or a problem with the output shaft. Your mechanic has directed you correctly in trying to pull a code from the engine control computer (ECC) because that will at least give you some general areas where to look. However, I think there’s a bigger tell on this than just the code that might pop out, the impact to the right front wheel.
The Uplander, being front drive, uses a combined transmission-front axle or transaxle. This means the same device is doing double duty, acting as the transmission and the driveshaft at the same time. In a rear-drive vehicle, the engine/crankshaft and flywheel put their power into the transmission which is a separate unit. The front-drive tranny takes the power from the tranny, through a differential joint and then on to the half-shafts. There’s very little separation between the half-shaft and the transmission that is driving it.
When your Uplander had the impact more than likely the half-shaft was bent or, at least, knocked a bit out of true. Over time, the problem was compounded by constant turning to the point where either a vibration or a shaft problem damaged the output shaft or the clutches/bands that drive the output shaft. Indeed, it is even possible that the vibration that may have been set up by the damaged shaft may have cause one or more of the shift solenoids to stop functioning normally.
My suggestion to you is find an independent transmission shop with a good reputation in your area and have them give the transmission a look. I think that you will find your problem is pretty much in the areas I described.
Unfortunately, this isn’t an inexpensive fix. If the major transmission mechanicals — torque converter, valve body, input shaft and gearing are in good shape — you are still looking at a major teardown to get to the clutches and output shaft. That alone will cost you about $1,800 and the work will likely add about $1,000 to that price. That puts the price at about $2,800. Given that a rebuilt transmission costs about $3,200 with installation, it might make sense just to skip all of the tinkering with small fixes, make the commitment and drop in a rebuilt. You will have many fewer headaches.
As to the parts outside the transmission — half-shaft, differentials and so forth — you will have to have them checked closely to make sure the impact your Uplander experienced didn’t leave them as a timebomb just waiting to put you into trouble again.
Please let me know what happens.
One last note, your transmission fluid has likely worn out but there is no major internal damage, yet. If the fluid were black or smelled burned then you have a problem. Likewise, if the fluid has metal shavings and feels gritty then you are likely facing other transmission damage. The rebuilt will fix that.
Need a replacement transmission? Quality transmissions are hard to find. Free estimate to your email.If you like the Caravan and the body is in good condition — provided the engine is, too — why go out and spend another $20,000-plus, when a $3,400 investment in a rebuilt transaxle will more than likely cure the problem.
What I suspect has happened to your Caravan’s tranny is this: the torque converter has blown out. A blow-out like that would account for the bang you heard and the fact that your vehicle can only move a few feet now and then hangs up.
Since the transmission fluid level is okay, at least you can be assured that things like input and output shaft seals are in good shape. And, since the vehicle is trying to move when you shift it into gear, it is more than likely that the clutches/bands, gears, valve body, solenoids and sensors are in reasonable shape. However, since the minivan won’t move, it points to the torque converter.
Please keep me in the loop about this. I like hearing from you.
I noticed you said you paid $1,100 to have the transmission rebuilt. For that price, you may have had the valve body cleaned and some of the check valves replaced or you may have had the solenoids replaced and, quite possibly, a seal or two fixed, as well as a new tranny filter installed. However, the work done indicates to me that maybe one component was fixed, rather than the whole thing.
I don’t know where you had the work done, but, I would suggest going back to them with the paid receipt and demanding your money back. Failing that, I would suggest you go to your county prosecutor or state attorney general or the consumer affairs office as it is obvious to me that there is a bit of fraud going on. They may have said the transmission was rebuilt but a real rebuilding job will cost in the vicinity of $3,200 to $3,800, depending on the location.
Why, even replacing the transmission with a rebuilt unit will cost from $3,000 to about $3,400 (a rebuild, since it does things piece by piece is generally more expensive than replacing the entire unit with a rebuilt transmission).
That said, you are going to have to have the tranny replaced with a rebuilt, as I just noted. From everything you have told me, the problem is beyond the temporary fixes you tried, way beyond. Please let me know what happens. I am interested in hearing from you.
There could be a bunch of things causing this but I think the most likely is that you are having a problem with one of the clutch/band pairs. And, it’s not that it is failing, so much, that it may just be due to a problem with the transmission fluid level or flow.
Your first move, then, is to let your car heat up for 20 minutes or so and then pull out the transmission dipstick. Now, reinsert it and draw it out again. The level should between the HOT or H lines (there are two, bottom and top). If the fluid level is okay, you know, at least, there’s enough transmission fluid in the case.
However, even though there may be enough fluid in the case, it is quite possible that the transmission filter could be blocking up and cutting the flow of transmission fluid through the case to a trickle. If it is a trickle, there isn’t enough fluid likely getting up to the clutch/band levels and if that’s the case, then the result is just as you describe it.
Of course, it is possible that the torque converter is not working correctly and is failing to set an adequate flow so that the proper gears are activated. Again, the result is limp-home mode.
You can easily check the fluid level yourself. I’d suggest taking it to an independent service area to have it checked in more depth as they have the proper facilities to drain the fluid and lift off the transmission cover without drowning themselves in fluid. I’d bet dollars to doughnuts that you’ll find that the transmission filter is clogged and messing things up.
Happy New Year!
Fortunately, it’s also a happy new year for your transmission as your problem is more than likely to be a relatively simple to fix, check the transmission fluid level. I suspect your car’s transmission is down a bit and that some parts of the transmission are taking extra time to sync up because the transmission fluid pressure has to build up enough to get those pieces covered.
When your transmission fluid is down a bit your transmission can function reasonably because the tranny can force whatever fluid is in the case — up to a point — to cover all parts of the transmission, eventually. That’s why it is taking a bit longer and when the shift happens it slams.
Not too long ago, we wrote up a section on how to correctly check and change your car’s transmission fluid level. Yes, the write-up does cover a lot of material but you will find a section on how to check the fluid level. Just follow the steps listed and you will know your transmission fluid level. Here’s a link to the procedure:
If it is down, obtain the proper transmission fluid recommended for your car’s transmission — some use Dexron, others don’ — purchase a quart and then carefully refill the transmission a bit at a time until the fluid level is at the “full” marking (F) on the dipstick.
Please let me know what happens.
From the sound of your problem, I suspect that your problem lies with the clutches and bands. When your transmission is operating normally, you make your gear selection and the torque converter responds by ramping up its revs so that the transmission spins up and the proper gears are set. In response, the clutches and bands come into play so that the engine and the transmission link and your car then moves forward in the proper gear. The problem is that the clutches are not engaging properly (or at all) because the bands, which tighten in conjunction with the clutch action, are likely slipping. The result is that your engine revs, but your pickup doesn’t go anywhere.
There is another possibility, though, which is that one or more of the solenoids on or in the valve body have failed. When you lose a solenoid, however, you only lose one or two gears and the transmission should go into limp-home mode so that you can get your vehicle to the service area. It is highly unlikely that both of the solenoids that act for your pickup’s forward gears have failed. It is a possibility that should be checked out.
There is one other possibility that I am throwing out so that you will know it. It is that the valve body has failed and is not directing the transmission fluid to the correct sections of the transmission and your vehicle is standing still, as it is doing. And, believe it or not, it isn’t because the entire valve body has failed, either. You see, the valve body contains a series of galleries through which the transmission fluid is directed. That direction is handled by a series of check valves — little more than a ball-bearing seated on a spring — that open and close in response to the flow of the transmission fluid. So, if it isn’t flowing down the gallery or galleries needed for your truck to move ahead, then you have a valve body problem.
As you can see, there are many different ways for this problem to play out. Why, it might even involve the torque converter and the input shaft, though, it is really unlikely in your pickup.
So, you are looking at putting a rebuilt transmission in place which will cost you between $3,000 and $3,200, depending on your location (at some particular brands and in some locations the bill could actually hit $4,100, while at other spots it might be as low as $2,850). I hope I’ve helped. If you have anymore questions please let me know here. I’m always glad to help.
It’s the holiday season and I know I am supposed to be seeing all the good things in life, including in your transmission, but, from what you are telling me, I’m going to have to play Grinch.
Whether you know it or not, you have diagnosed your own problem, you just don’t realize it. The fact is, it’s right there in your description: “… Also I am seeing a lot of what looks like trans fluid on the point where the part of the transmission … ”
It looks to me like you have lost a good deal, if not most, of your transmission fluid. Yes, manual transmissions require fluid, just like automatics. The key differences are the type of fluid and the amount. Since your truck has a manual, you need manual transmission fluid. This may sound like an oxymoron, but it isn’t. The reason is that automatic transmission fluid is meant to do a bunch of things: lubricate, cool and operate the transmission. Manual transmission fluid has to primarily lubricate and cool. Automatics usually require lots more fluid than manuals because the fluid is the enabler in the automatic while it is the lubricator in the manual. A manual uses physical contact, while the automatic is all about fluidics.
With all of that said, plus one more factor you mentioned, age, and your transmission problem was a ticking problem just waiting to happen. I don’t know when you last had any sort of preventive maintenance performed on the transmission. However, I suspect it was a long time ago at a service area far, far, away, as in maybe years ago. Over time, the transmission fluid has become dirtier and dirtier and is carrying more gunk around in it.
Granted, manuals work because you do the shifting, without relying all the whirling parts inside the transmission housing. At that, though, your transmission still needs lubrication. And, as time has passed the fluid’s ability, as it has become dirtier, has become less and less. It just isn’t working anymore. Instead, you are experiencing failures. It probably begins at the interface of the engine and the transmission, the clutch and friction plates and moves on from there. I suspect that if you pull the transmission, you will likely find that one or more of the gears are shot, perhaps to the point where a cog or two may have either been smoothed or may have broken off.
And, it is also possible that the throwout bearing is also failing, among other things.
With all this said, I think you can see what I am saying, your tranny is shot and you will be replacing it. I hate to be Grinchy about it, but, you will be replacing it soon. It will likely cost you about $2,500 or so.
There are several schools of thought about what causes whining in Subaru transmissions. They range from “they all do it” to “there’s a problem.” I tend to be on the side of “there’s a problem,” although there’s validity to the other side, as well.
It’s in the nature of the way the particular gears are built. Usually, first and second use straight cut gearing so that when they engage they tend to by whiny all the time. When you get to third, you usually hit helically designed gearing which, while it can whine, usually is quieter. Reverse is straight cut and whines.
Since you are telling me that there’s a lot of whining in second, third and fourth, when there really shouldn’t be more than just a small level of whine, then it is quite likely that your gearing is pretty well chewed up. More than likely third, fourth and fifth are pretty much beaten down, while first and second are nearly gone.
Your options are very limited because, at this point, about the only thing you can do is drop in a rebuilt unit to replace the one with the bad gearing. You are looking at about a $3,000 bill for the job, depending on your location and your shop.
Oh, and your question about bearings — the bearing that is usually voted most likely to fail (not succeed) is the throwout bearing which is the device the disconnects the friction plate from the clutch plate face so that the engine and transmission are separate units and you can shift.
In your case, though, you don’t have to worry about bearings because it is your transmission’s gearing that needs the work.
Believe it or not, there are electronic switches in your transmission called solenoids. Technically, they are “switch/relay” devices and all they really do is turn different things on and off at the right moment.
What I suspect is happening is this: at some point or other a piece of grit, that may have become dislodged when the new fillup of transmission fluid went in, has taken up residence on part of the solenoid and is causing it to either slip throwing the solenoid into the off position or it is causing a delay and keeping it closed when it should be opening. In either case, the solenoids that enable gear-switching should be replaced.
There are two of them located on the valve body. One usually handles first and third and the other second and fourth, both usually handle reverse. One may be on the outside of the valve body and is pretty easy for your technician to get to. The other is a bit harder to reach as it will require a new drain and refill of the transmission fluid and it will require the technician to get inside the valve body, but since the major components aren’t removed, it is not as big a deal as, say, replacing the torque converter or a set of clutches both of which require a major teardown.
That said, you are looking at a cost of about $300, including labor, for the solenoid replacement.
Let me know what happens as I am always happy to hear from you guys.
The smoke that you are seeking, believe it or not, is coming from the cooling system. If the smoke were black or bluish then it would have been coming from either the lubrication or fuel systems (oil is blue, gas is black).
What I suspect has happened to your car is not good news. I suspect that your block may have a hairline crack. This means that coolant is leaking out from the water jacket and the affected galleries. When coolant seeps out of a block and comes in contact with the hot block it forms steam and thus the white smoke you are seeing.
Since the vehicle has stopped, it is quite likely that is the case. You are losing coolant and it is overheating. The combination causes the engine to stop.
I don’t think it is transmission-related at all because there is nothing to indicate that transmission fluid is involved (reddish or dark brown smoke or a reddish leak).
I don’t want want say that it is a cracked block, I am just saying it could be. Hopefully, it is far more simple, something like a bad head gasket. Your car has to get to the shop as soon as possible. Hope I’ve helped, please let me know.
If you could answer a couple of questions for me, I will be able to give you the right answer. First, you mention smoke. What color was the smoke (it does make a big difference)? Was it whitish? Was it black? Was it brown? Or, was it blue? It may seem like nitpicking, but it isn’t because each type of smoke can indicate a different problem. For example, whitish smoke could indicate a problem with the cooling system. And, it’s really not smoke, but steam that is gushing out. Likewise, if the smoke was black, it could indicate there was a problem with the oil and crankcase or possibly the EGR system or possibly the MAS sensor and related pieces.
Next, you indicated there was fluid all over the place. Was it oil? Was it black? Did it have a reddish or brownish tinge to it? Or did it have a greenish or yellowish tinge to it. Black fluid could indicate a problem with the lubrication system and, quite possibly, the fuel system. Reddish fluid or brownish or red-brown fluid indicates a transmission problem is happening while greenish or yellowish fluid indicates there is a problem with the cooling system.
Finally, can you tell me if any lines or hoses had obviously let go? If you can give me this info, I’ll be able to help you.
I really want to help you out but I need a little more information before I can even hazard a thought.
Let’s stop and back up a bit, okay. You have put so much into your note, my head is spinning, but I will give it a try.
First, your instincts are right. It’s time to say sayonara to your mechanic. I am not saying anything bad about him. I am just saying that he isn’t a good fit for you. You need someone who is more empathetic to you and your needs and your income.
What you need is what is called a “safety check.” This type of check tells you if your car is safe to drive and it helps to indentify where the problems are. It should cost you in the vicinity of $125. I know that your money’s tight, but I think you’ll be better off for it.
You get your safety at your local Nissan dealer. Yes, I am telling you to go back to the dealer, but there is a reason for it. With all of the stuff you have been told about what’s wrong (I honestly still can’t figure out where the transmission part of it comes in, though paper-on-paper indicates that you might have a band problem as it might be slipping bands/clutches — this is just a hunch) and all of the contradictory advice you are receiving, the dealership is the only place where you will find a good starting point.
Notice that I said starting point because once you have received your safety, I would advise you to check with your local AAA chapter. A few years ago, AAA began a program that approves repair shops, giving them the AAA-approved logo. Because they have the AAA-approved stamp, they have to meet certain requirements mandated by AAA. They are more consumer-oriented and up front in dealing with you. Right now, you need someone in your corner and I think you should look into this program to find a good match. They should work with you to get your Nissan’s problems solved.
As to your specific problems, forget them for the moment and concentrate on an overall health check of your vehicle. Then, take it to an approved repair shop and have them look it over. Ask them to work with you in setting up a service plan to get your Altima’s problems solved.
Transmission-wise, if your Nissan is still moving briskly and not juddering or dropping out of gear suddenly, then I wouldn’t worry about issues just yet. Hold off on the transmission fluid flush for the moment. It could cause more harm than you know as it is done under pressure and it could cause things to be loosened and the loosened things can become lodged in places they shouldn’t be, causing more harm than good.
One more thing, have the technican at the dealer do a read of the engine control computer (ECC) memory for error codes. You mentioned that the check engine light came on and then went off. That indicates the ECC caught a code from a component. That very code may solve all your problems or at least start the solution.
Please let me know what happens.
Your problem certainly is transmission related. I would narrow your choices down to these:
- Torque converter
- Clutches
- Bands
- Gearing
If it looks like this is a broad range of choices, you are right. Physically, at least, you are looking at four different, but related, areas of your transmission. The thing of it is this, they are all in the same acceleration chain, if you will, that enables your Toyota to accelerate from a start to 50 kph and back down again to 0 kph. The torque converter takes the power from the input shaft and transfers it through the valve body to the clutches and bands that are activated by the solenoids. The clutches and bands then, working with the gearing, provide your Toyota with each gear in cycle.
Now, it is possible that the input shaft or the shaft seals may be out of round and vibrating which will set the entire acceleration chain off kilter. It’s possible that this is what is causing your vibration, but I think not. I think that when you removed the old transmission fluid that was black and burnt various deposits were freed up by the new transmission fluid — the stuff that became blackened and burnt quickly — and they floated through the transmission case, only to become lodged somewhere else. Most likely, the new deposits filled in various valve spaces in the valve body so that, at key moments, when the transmission fluid was supposed to be opening a check valve to flow through to the new gear settings needed by the clutches, bands and gears to operate correctly, there was no fluid.
In turn, the lack of flowing transmission fluid or smoothly flowing transmission fluid damaged the clutch/band combination and/or the clutch/band/gear combination, causing the problems you are having.
If you want to hold onto your Toyota, which I suspect you do, the only thing for it is a rebuilt transmission to replace the one that is now in the case. Though it depends on your physical location, you are looking at an investment of up to $3,800 (U.S.). I know that is probably not the answer you want to hear, but it is, nevertheless, the only answer that is possible.
A few years ago, Toyota distributed a Technical Service Bulletin regarding a problem like this. The TSB sounds as if it fits your RAV4 exactly. The problem is this: it looks like something else, but it really isn’t. The symptoms you listed are classic transmission slippage. They indicate there could be a problem with the clutches and bands or clutches, bands and gears or the torque converter, clutches, bands and gears. Then again, the problem also looks like the transmission solenoids are failing, as well.
Issues like this, when something happens that is actually caused by something else can be confusing. If you think you are confused, your RAV4s Engine Control Computer (ECC) is as well. It is firing components when they should be fired and then acting normally.
What is happening is that the ECC is failing and has to be replaced. The failing ECC can cause the solenoids to act erratically. The solenoids fire erratically and can be damaged by the misfiring sequences.
Have your technician pull the error codes from the ECC. If you see P0750, P0753, P0755, P0758 and/or P1760, then you have a good idea that the ECC is failing and has to be replaced.
It may seem as if you can fix the problem by replacing the solenoids but they are the symptom, not the cause. The cause is the ECC.
Since the ECC is a key part of your car’s engine control system, you are looking at a $1,400 pricetag for its replacement. Granted, it is a hefty cost, but think about this, if you had to have your car’s transmission replaced by a rebuilt unit, you would be paying about $3,200 in total. The $1,400 is less than half, so it is a little better. Let me know what happens, if you would, I’d be interested.
I’ll try my best to help you out with a initial suggestion of places to look but you can help me give you better information if you can answer one of these questions:
- Is the transmission shifting hard, slamming into each gear?
- Is the transmission shifting going from hard to soft and back again?
- Is the transmission juddering and stumbling, as well as tight?
- Can you let me know how you define “tight”? To me it means something like your transmission is slamming from gear to gear. Is this right?
Please let me know the answer or answers you come up with so I can be more exact in my response.
As a first cut, though, I’d suggest look at the transmission fluid level and check it. You will find the procedure outlined here: http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/change-transmission-fluid/. It sounds as if your transmission fluid level could be low.
Low transmission fluid levels can cause your transmission transmission to work harder at increasing the pressure of the fluid passing over the gears. It takes extra time for the pressure to build and because the transmission fluid is low, it causes the gears to slam.
How does this happen in a close system like an automatic transmission? If you look at the transmission closely, you will see that is really isn’t totally closed. There are seals on the input and output shafts that can become brittle with age and begin to leak. Such leaks are hard-to-find and require another visit to a technician with a lift where you Hyundai can be put up in the air. If, however, you have access to a hydraulic jack that will lift the front end, you can look for this leakage yourself. You will have to look closely along the case as these shafts are mostly enclosed and the fluid will be blown off the transmission as you travel. Don’t ever try to use the tire jack to lift your vehicle as it isn’t stable for more than just changing a tire.
Look along the transmission pan, as well, for signs of leakage.
This is my first thought on your problem. There are several possibilities so if you can give me a bit more to go on it will be helpful. I’ll answer you right here.
Don’t bet that you weren’t receiving any transmission-related codes because you were. Believe it or not, the MAF (mass air flow) sensor and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) sensor are polled by the transmission control module during normal transmission operation. When you step down on the accelerator to get going both sensors provide the engine control module with information telling the central computer (ECC) that they received the message that more air will be required by the engine because you have stepped down and launched a lower gear.
Without an affirming return that the MAF and EGR are opening up to meet the needs of the downshift, the ECC doesn’t know whether things are working correctly or not. In this situation, strange things can happen. For instance, the torque converter may not spinup correctly and may cause the transmission to judder as it goes out of sequence and then hops back in and then out again. Likewise, the slippage may be because one solenoid or another is late closing and a gear either engages late or doesn’t engage at all. This type of performance can also affect the whether the clutches engage correctly.
As you can see, the MAF and EGR codes were telling you something transmission-related. I suspect that you will find this is the problem area and that if you swap out one of both, your ‘Vette’s problems should go away. Let me know if this helps. (The good news is that this fix should be less than $500 with labor if both sensors need to be replaced. If only one needs to be replaced, you are looking at $250 or less.)
I would really like to tell you that there’s an easy fix for this, but I honestly cannot. The reason is that the transmission oil has come out black two times within 200 miles. That means a major component has failed.
You didn’t say whether the oil had a burnt smell, but I suspect that if you put a little on your finger and take a whiff, you’ll find that it does have an odor like it has burned. Transmission fluid is organic so it can burn.
Getting to it, here’s the deal. You are going to have to install a rebuilt transmission and it is going to cost you about $3,000 to take care of the job.
The reason I am recommending the rebuilt transmission is this, somewhere, there is some major damage. Since the transmission fluid has come out black I suspect there’s more than a bit of metal-on-metal contact, perhaps, the clutches, bands and gears. Or, perhaphs it might be amongst the planetary gears and linkages. Or, it could be the torque converter and related parts. Whatever the part or parts, there is a major issue.
What I suspect happened, quickly, is that for nearly 300,000 miles your transmission worked happily with the transmission fluid that was in the case. When you changed it, it opened up a host of problems such as deposits getting lose and plugging galleries and inhibiting the flow of transmission fluid. It was only a matter of time until the worst happened and your Ranger stopped.
Good luck and let me know what happens.
Since you took your Avenger back to the dealer to have the solenoid replaced, I would take it back again and have the technician check the reverse solenoid. It is quite possible that the various solenoid packs for the forward gears are working correctly, but the solenoid that initiates reverse is going bad. You note that the tranny tries to shift, but it doesn’t make it. A partially firing solenoid can act erratically and make it seem as if the transmission is shifting into reverse, but it isn’t. Let me know if this solves the problem as I will be happy to do a bit more research if the reverse solenoid fix doesn’t work. I suspect that it will solve your problem.
I know this sounds like a transmission problem, but it is more likely a mechanical problem. From the sound of it — since there are so many potential candidates. I’d speculate that the problem is somewhere in the ignition. I would have the fuel injection system looked at closely, as well as the computer control modules.
It is possible that the emissions control system or a piece of it is fouling. I’d suggest having the catalytic converter checked and it might not be a bad idea, while the technician is under the hood, to have the compression checked, as well. Your engine might have a ring seal problem or it could have a valve problem. Or it could be something as simple as a blown head gasket, whose symptoms are very close to your description.
It is possible that your transmission’s control module has gone, but I don’t think that’s the case.
Let me know what you find out. I’d be interested to hear. As I said, there are so many candidates that might cause this problem that it’s hard, without pulling the diagnostic code from the engine control computer or without putting the engine through some very sophisticated tests, to know the exact problem.
Well, the good news is that you have heck of a car. The powerteam on the Z3 is little short of fantastic. It was one of the most flexible combinations I drove in the 90s and early 2000s. It still stands out today.
I agree with you, if there was one still in my driveway, I’d want to keep it, as well. The problem is your two problems. I have to suspect that the rest of the Z3 is fine mechanically and that you are asking about the tranny specifically, of course.
Your first problem is the friction plate. Since you are hearing squealing when you are getting into gear and then cruising, it indicates that the fiction plate (some people call it the pressure plate) is slipping. It is literally sliding against the clutch plate on the engine side. Eventually, the plate or plates will wear out and while you Z3 may start and run, it won’t go anywhere.
Though it is fairly straightforward getting to the pressure plate, you still have to open the transmission housing, remove the transmission itself and then you will have to access the friction plate, remove it, after removing things like the input shaft and such and replace it. It’s not an inconsequential job and will cost you the better part of $2,800, though in some places you may be able to save a bit, maybe $400 or so.
The second part of the problem involves the device that has likely been the cause of the whole problem, the throwout bearing. As you probably know, when you press the clutch in, the linkages exert lifting pressure on the throwout bearing. When that bearing is disengaged, the friction plate disengages and the engine and transmission are free-wheeling because they are no longer connected.
Though the throwout bearing is inexpensive, as transmission parts go, because it costs about $225 or so (maybe more or less, depending on location), replacing it is, again, costly in terms of labor and potentially outboard parts (linkages and such) that may also be worn (this is a big if because standard transmissions are very robust) because you have to remove the transmission from the housing to get to the part. The good thing here, though, is that you will already have the transmission open to replace the friction plate so that you can replace the throwout bearing at the same time. All told, you are looking at a bill of about $3,000 for the work on both parts (this is a BMW, after all).
Good luck and enjoy it when you have it repaired.
Here’s an honest reply: with over 227,000 miles on your RAV4 and since your transmission is working well, don’t worry about things. As long as your transmission fluid doesn’t have a burnt odor or doesn’t feel gritty to the touch, there’s nothing to worry about. Just leave things as they are. Your transmission is quite happy with the fluid and vice versa so there’s no reason to change. Sometimes, honestly, the documents that tell you to change the fluid at XXX miles for best performance are well meaning, but they aren’t right for your vehicle. Instead, you have to go with what you know. In this case, since there is nothing wrong, why change things?
Here’s what might happen if you do: since you will likely change the tranny filter at the same time, there’s a good chance that a stray deposit that it might be holding will break free and fall into the transmission, unknowingly. That debris might then slip through when you refill the transmission and become lodge somewhere it shouldn’t be. It might be on a sensor probe or in one of the many galleries in the valve body, plugging it up. The probe might go from good to bad and start a chain of events that could end up with you having to put in a rebuilt transmission.
There’s an old poem that comes from somewhere (it could be part of Shakespeare or some other famous author of old) that reads: “for want of a shoe….)”. By the time the poem is done, the good king has lost the war and everything’s a mess. In the case of your transmission (the good king here), just changing the fluid introduces a whole new range of “shoes” into the picture that could end up causing you to lose the battle.
Fair Replacement Transmission Cost by Vehicle
- Use the Year / Make / Model lookup tool to determine what transmission your vehicle has. [transtar]
- Find your transmission model in the table below for fair prices from reputable suppliers. Also fair labor cost for local installation at a local auto repair shop.
- Get a free estimate on a remanufactured transmission by email.
Fair Remanufactured Transmission Price Ranges by Transmission Model Updated May 1, 2018
