Hostgator

Thanks for your confidence, I hope you still think it’s justified when I tell you that for all the time you have waited, you could have installed the rebuilt transmission your Nissan needed and you could have had the use of your car.

There are several scenarios that could have produced the various sounds you heard when your Nissan stopped moving. I suspect that what happened was quite simple: there was a problem on the input shaft that translated over to the torque converter and initial gearing. Then, as the torque converter started to spin up, something bound — possible a gear — and that accounted for the loud snapping sound you heard.

It is possible, of course, that everything worked as it was supposed to until it hit the planetary gearing where the ultimate gearing choices are made, depending on the action of the valve body and/or the solenoids.

With all of that said, though, the bottom line is that it is quite likely that one or more of your tranny’s major systems are shot and the result is that you need a rebuilt installed (when I talk about a rebuilt, I am also saying “new” or “replacement.” Because of the size and complexity of transmissions, it makes little sense to try to replace each transmission subsystem, unless it is one of the solenoid packs or, perhaps, a valve body problem. In those case, the cost of repair parts and labor is low enough — $150 to $500 — so that it makes sense to repair the individual systems. Going beyond into the multithreaded systems the interact and need subsystems, each subsystem can caost upwards of $1,520 to replace and so when you finish replacing one and then, possibly, another, you will find the cost skyrocketing.) To keep costs as reasonable as possible, install the rebuilt transmission for $3,200 and you will be better off. Let me know what you decide and what happens next.

Ah, then it sounds like the cable within the runner in the gearshift cable has stretched and the cable is binding. It is the way the cable is made. Normally, what happens when you shift is that the cable has stretched and instead of taking up any slack, causing the shifter to hunt for the proper transmission setting point.

If everything is working as it is supposed to within the runner, the cable works against its anchor point, usually installed in the valve body. The anchor point can consist of a bar that makes the actual selection in response to the cable. Once your vehicle has found its shifting point, the vehicle’s transmission responds by selecting the proper path in the valve body so that the proper gear is chosen. Once the proper great kicks in, life is good. However, sometimes, until you find the right gear, things can be weird.

From the sound of it, there are likely two problems affecting your Transit. The first is a binding gearshift cable and the second appears to be with the gear activator solenoids.

Here’s what happens when you normally shift your van. Let’s say you select drive and slide the gearshift selector to the D position. There are a couple of issues that should happen here. As you pull the vehicle out of Park, the dog collar securing the output shaft releases and allows the transmission to work correctly. Once the dog collar is freed up and parked for normal operation, the torque converter spins up and starts transmission fluid flowing threw the transmission. At this point, depending on the input from several sensors, your transmission chooses the gear it wants to start off in. In a five-speed, it means your Transmit may start off in first to fifth.

The actual choice of gearing is governed by the solenoid. There are usually two solenoids located on the valve body, one internal and the other external (some multi-geared transmissions may add another). Depending on which relays are set to fire by the solenoids, you then have the final gearing choice that is sent along to the clutch/band combinations.

In theory, it is quite easy to do. The reality is far different as the solenoids must fire at the right time; the valve body has to be clear and free of debris so the proper check valves allow the right gearing choices and fluid route. Now, if one of the solenoids fails to fire for one reason or another, not only will your Transit shift in the manner you describe, but it will also likely go into limp-home mode, which you also touch on in your question.

If your transmission goes into, say, first and reverse and no other gears, your transmission is in limp-home mode because the engine control computer (ECC or ECM) has received a code from a sensor or other electronic device telling the ECC there’s a problem.

So, now we have all of the possibilities on the table. The good part, for at least two of them — the binding cable and solenoids — is that they are relatively quick and inexpensive to fix. If you have to repair the transmission select cable (a gearshift cable within a runner) because it has stretched beyond all belief due to years of wear), as well as the solenoids, you are looking at a parts cost of about $450 and labor of another $300. This is far better than installing a rebuilt transmission for $3,400, isn’t it.

If, on the other hand, the problem is more serious — an error code and limp-home mode — seem to indicate that it might be, then you are looking at the diagnostic and locating the problem. I suspect that your ultimate problem (number four) is, like as not, in the planetary gearing itself. The only way you are going to find this out is a major diagnostic teardown which will cost on the order of $1,450, plus any replacement parts. In this instance — only this one — I’d suggest a rebuilt transmission because your ultimate costs will be less. Please let me know how this works out.

The TSS/OSS service bulletin is what you should “listen” to and not someone trying to build business with $3,000 tranny rebuilds. Quite frankly, the sensor issue is quite well known and it is the first one I would have suggested when you indicated the error code.

It’s interesting that one of the mechanics noted he could find no codes when he scanned the system. I believe I know why. When you had the system scanned the first time and the 0722 code popped out, I believe the technician reset the engine control module (ECM) so that all error codes are cleared. Sometimes, if codes aren’t cleared, your vehicle can indicate there are problems when, in fact, everything has been cleaned up.

That’s why, I think, the tech did a reset to make sure that once any work was done (I am sure he was presuming there would be some substantive transmission work heading into one of the bays where he could make a few extra dollars) your vehicle would operate correctly and not throw false codes.

At least you can say the first tech did have a conscience.

My ultimate suggestion is go to a third shop — ask around work, if you don’t know of any shops, other than the first two, and have the sensors installed. I think you’ll find your Lincoln is going to feel a whole lot better and that it will operate quite nicely, as well.

Could you do me one favor? Please let me know the outcome. I do like to hear what happens.

How long is a bit? Just depends on the timing. If it is a second or two I wouldn’t worry about it. Just my experience.

In a traditional manual transmission, everything is pretty much in line — engine, transmission, differential. When you shift, depending on the position of the gearshift, you are choosing one of three rods that, in turn, chooses a different fork for a different gear. As you move through the gears, different combinations of rods and forks move as you go through the gearshift pattern and put the right gears in contact with the layshaft at the right times.

The steps that make this occur are:

* Press clutch in
* Shift gears
* Release clutch

The Mini, like most front-drive subcompacts, differs to a major degree because of its engine placement. Instead of being mounted North to South where north is the front of the car and sount is the rear, the engine is mounted East to West. This introduces another level of complexity into transmission work.

In the traditional engine/transmission layout, the general direction of movement is back and forth. In a transversely mounted layout — the type used in your Mini — the movement is side to side. Yet, when sit in your Mini you are still oriented North to South (you look at the front end and the rear end is behind you) and all of the actions are similar.

This is where the complications set it, just because the combined engine, transmission and axle (transaxle) are at adds. To smooth things out, the Mini uses a set of cables to shift. A known problem on these cables. There are two cables that use spherical end joints whose rubber can wear. When these cables wear, your Mini will exhibit the problems you discuss. It’s simply because the either bind up or fail to function that you lose your shift.

The good news is that you won’t have to invest 1,000 pounds to replace the transmission. You will likely have to spend about 250 pounds and it is will be a fairly quick repair, maybe four or six hours.

It sounds like your tranny is in limp-home mode because of its problem or problems and won’t shift out to normal operation. That’s as much as I can say, right now, because I need more information. You said that three fault codes were generated (something in the XX7X range, like as not). If you could let me know what they are, I can then put on the patented thinking cap and help you out.

Let me know when you have a minute as I think I may know the answer, but it really does depend on the error code that the ECM (Engine Control Module) picked up from the Transmission Control Module (TCM).

It may seem like a strange diagnosis, but, I suspect that the parking pawl — the ringed gear that engages engages when you put your car into Park and keeps it from rolling — may have slipped and engaged. It is very likely that the solenoid that engages the pawl misfired, probably due to an electrical fault, and engaged. That would account for the strange noise and the lack of movement since. If it were a gear then it is likely you would still be able to push your VW forward, though with a lot of help (you have a lot of transmission fluid and transaxle working against you). If it were the torque converter, again, you would be able to push your VW forward, again with lots of effort.

I wish it were as simple as just the fluid levels — your VW would either be in a limp-home mode or it would still roll, albeit with difficulty — or even a solenoid or valve body, but it is not. When the pawl engages and locks things up abruptly there’s sure to be damage to the output shaft, maybe the gears, like as not the clutches and bands and, even, the input shaft. It really tears up the tranny.

Your only choice here is a rebuilt transmission for about $3,400. You have to hope that there’s no damage to the half-shaft from the wheel. Please keep me in the loop on this.

The problem is fairly simple to define: it is more than likely the torque converter. Indeed, just “earballing” the problem (you can’t really eyeball a transmission problem so you have to rely on what you hear), tells me that the torque converter is failing. More specifically, the problem more than likely lies with the turbine input blades that take the output of the converter, increase the pressure and then shunt the output throughout the transmission housing.

From the sound of the problem, the torque converter itself is working correctly, but, the turbine is taking longer to spin up and work correctly. It is something you have to expect at the mileage you have on the Pathfinder. And, while I am a fan of the Pathfinder — I enjoyed driving them when I worked at several local dealerships a few years ago — even as tough as it is, parts begin to fail at high mileage.

Since the turbine is likely the key piece of the torque converter that is going, it must be replaced. Here’s the irony of the problem. The turbine and its vanes cost about $600 or about $950 (AUD). for the basic parts. The need to completely empty the housing and then tear down the case and pull out the transmission so you can replace the turbine will cost you another $1,400 (USD) or about $1,800 (AUD).

Here’s an idea to consider: think about replacing the transmission with a rebuilt unit. The reason I suggest this, frankly, is that if you are planning to keep the Pathfinder for a longer time, which I suspect is your aim, then it makes sense to replace the entire unit at once, instead of doing piecemeal repairs that, in the long run, will cost much more money.

As I noted, it will cost about $2,750 (AUD) to replace the turbine and its parts. If, the front part of the converter fails as it may you are looking at roughly the same replacement cost. Just those parts alone are more than $5,500 (AUD). When you add in all of the other costs, piece-by-piece replacement of the transmission will soon outpace the cost of the rebuilt transmission. The fact is that you may end up spending five, six or as much as 10 times the cost of the rebuilt transmission. If, on the other hand, you choose the rebuilt, you are actually saving money.

Please keep me in the loop on this as I am interested to see what happens.

By all means, check out the transmission fluid level as soon as you can because that is likely the problem you are having. Or, at least, from a first viewing of your problem that’s what is going on.

The clues that tell me this is likely the problem are really simple to see. There’s a slight lag when going into reverse; drive is taking a longer time to lock up, and you lost reverse once.

What is happening is simply this: Because the fluid level is down a bit, the transmission has to work harder to bring the fluid up to pressure that is needed now to make the transmission work properly. Normally, the transmission fluid doesn’t have to have the pressure increased because it bathes every device within the transmission housing. Howeve, if the fluid drops a bit, the tranny tries to compensate and the internal pressure increases as a matter of course.

At times, when the pressure isn’t high enough, some gears or the vanes on the torque converter turbine are left high-and-dry and the transmission won’t work. At other times, such as on a hard corner, your devices can actually have the tranny fluid peeled away to cause problems.

So, check the tranny fluid level and be sure to see whether your Subaru is down just a bit — which I suspect it is — or whether it is a larger amount. Then, add the proper transmission fluid (check your owner’s manual for the proper type) until it reaches “FULL” on the dipstick.

Have you checked all the linkages? I know you probably have, but I have to ask you. It’s easy to overlook the most obvious parts. If the linkages are bad then there’s no way the transmission is shifting into gear. Make sure, while you are at it, the cable isn’t binding in the runner. This is another easy one to miss. With that said, you might want to go into the transmission and take a look at the very end of the cable. It should terminate in a lever that’s about four-inches-long. It has a hook at the end. The lever turns about a-quarter of the way around and actuates the transmission shifter. Because it is located inside the transmission, it’s another easy part to miss. However, if you miss it, your transmission won’t go into gear and the truck won’t move.

Also, I would urge you to have your son and his teacher go through the transmission step-by-step because it is possible that a clip or spring may be installed in reverse, keeping everything from working.

I’ll be surious to hear what’s wrong, let me know.