Tranny does not shift to change gear

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  • #6908
    samoela
    Participant

    I have a Buick century 1994. The transmission was dead and I took it down, changed all broken parts and put new ones: clutches, reverse reaction shell, solenoids, torque converter. The tranny is 4T60-E. After setting it back, all parts thoroughly cleans, I took it back with the engine. I drive the car and I have noticed that when I shift to D (drive), it is not changing gear by itself, just increasing RPM getting noisy like a turbine. There is no shift problem to R, N, D, 3, 2, 1 but the problem is that when on D it doesn’t change gear.
    My thoughts was about the torque converter shift (2090 RPM instead of 1860 RPM) but that should not, I guess, stop the gear to change… Need help please.

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    #6918
    Hostgator
    Member

    This sounds like a case where you changed all of the right parts, but the electronics may not have caught up. Let’s look at it logically. Since you changed all of the key mechanical parts in the proper sequence and reset it properly, the only things that might be out of kilter, causing your problem, would be the electronics.

    There are a few electronic things that can cause this problem beyond the obvious cause, the solenoids. The reason that the problem wouldn’t be the solenoids, in your case, is that you replaced them, so you are ahead of the game, here.

    However, it’s not to say that there’s not another piece of electronic gear that’s not working correctly. For example, the Engine Control Module (ECM) or the microcomputer that is controlling the engine, drivetrain and everything else, might be bad. And, then there’s the Transmission Control Module (TCM) or the microcomputer that controls the transmission specifically. It may also be failing, as well. Or, it might be a sensor or set of sensors such as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor that might be going or gone.

    As you can see, there’s a whole realm that might be impacting your transmission, not just the mechanical parts that you have already switched out.

    Here’s my thinking on this: Have a technician throw an OBD-II diagnostic scanner on your car and run a diagnostic of the vehicle, watching for any codes that might relate to the transmission or the sensor suite that is connected to it. I think, quite frankly, that the scanner should be able to catch any error codes relating to transmission. Those codes, by the way, are also stored in the ECM’s memory, so if you think you missed any codes, they will be available for reading, anyway.

    Check out the electronics and error codes and I think you’ll find the answer to your problem right there. The good news is that, compared to transmission mechanicals, electronics are far less expensive to replace. And, you don’t have to strip down the tranny to get to them, for the most part. I hope this helps.

    #6919
    Hostgator
    Member

    This sounds like a case where you changed all of the right parts, but the electronics may not have caught up. Let’s look at it logically. Since you changed all of the key mechanical parts in the proper sequence and reset it properly, the only things that might be out of kilter, causing your problem, would be the electronics.

    There are a few electronic things that can cause this problem beyond the obvious cause, the solenoids. The reason that the problem wouldn’t be the solenoids, in your case, is that you replaced them, so you are ahead of the game, here.

    However, it’s not to say that there’s not another piece of electronic gear that’s not working correctly. For example, the Engine Control Module (ECM) or the microcomputer that is controlling the engine, drivetrain and everything else, might be bad. And, then there’s the Transmission Control Module (TCM) or the microcomputer that controls the transmission specifically. It may also be failing, as well. Or, it might be a sensor or set of sensors such as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor that might be going or gone.

    As you can see, there’s a whole realm that might be impacting your transmission, not just the mechanical parts that you have already switched out.

    Here’s my thinking on this: Have a technician throw an OBD-II diagnostic scanner on your car and run a diagnostic of the vehicle, watching for any codes that might relate to the transmission or the sensor suite that is connected to it. I think, quite frankly, that the scanner should be able to catch any error codes relating to transmission. Those codes, by the way, are also stored in the ECM’s memory, so if you think you missed any codes, they will be available for reading, anyway.

    Check out the electronics and error codes and I think you’ll find the answer to your problem right there. The good news is that, compared to transmission mechanicals, electronics are far less expensive to replace. And, you don’t have to strip down the tranny to get to them, for the most part. I hope this helps.

    #6959
    samoela
    Participant

    Thank you.
    I tried to ride the car again today, and I have noticed that the shift actually occurred. But then it is spinning making the “turbine” noise, and there is no traction, like slipping clutches. So therefore I think the ring (I don’t know how to call it) that pushes the 2nd (or the 3rd?) clutch is not working because the clutches are not bonded together. Is that still controlled by a solenoid?
    I will take the car to a garage but I am curious about what happened. It’s frustrating after 1 entire month working on it with high precautions.
    Anyway your previous answers helped me to understand more about transmission.
    Thanks a lot

    #6982
    Hostgator
    Member

    Thanks! Just off the top of my head right now, can you check the transmission fluid level? I know you probably have had this done, but, I am wondering if your transmission might not have sprung a pinhole leak somewhere, maybe along a seam that should have been sealed with and RTV-like substance (that’s the stuff they put around sinks and things exposed to the weather to keep water out permanently). If your transmission is trying to spin up, it’s entirely possible that the torque converter may just be uncovered and trying to send transmission fluid to the impeller, but it is just not working.

    It’s quick and I can give you the steps if you need them. It’s just a thought for a late night.

    #7113
    samoela
    Participant

    The fluid level is OK. I may take the car to a garage to check with a diagnostic scanner this upcoming week-end (I don’t have too much time) to see exactly what’s going on. Again the car is moving but after the tranny shifts down (I feel it), the tranny is spinning up, no more traction, so the torque converter I guess is good. In case I want to check it myself, what kind of diagnostic scanner can I purchase? One of the reasons I fixed the transmission is that I want to learn thoroughly about it so if I could do it I would continue by myself (with your help, :=). Thanks

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