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So I have a 2010 Nissan Cube 4 cyl 1.8 L engine.
Mileage is 113080 mi. CVT transmission.So I went round trip from Massachusetts to St. Louis andback. The drive out to St. Louis was fine no issues. A week later on the ride home drove all the way home with no incident other that the whining from the transmission was louder. Average speeds were 70 mph. No performance issues. It did snow towards the end of the drive but nothing out of the ordinary. We got home fine. We woke up the following morning for work and the car started revved normally in park then once in drive the vehicle would drive for a second then the rpms would go to 1000 and not rev and higher even with my foot to the floor o the gas. I thought it was a fuel delivery issue so i changed the fuel pump. Nothing changed other thanbthe car wouldn’t start probably from a low battery because . The car was used for a week and a half. once . I jumped it i was able to drive normally for a half of mile. Then I read about MAF sensor issues on my cube so I changed the air filter and new MAF sensor. Had to jump the car again as it sat for another week and a half. Will run fine in park then once I put in gear the car crawls and no rev higher than the 1000 rpms. When I return the vehicle to park the revs idles at just under a 1000 rpms then when I floor the gas in park the rpms will very slowly climb to 6 or 7000 rpms. But the engine doesn’t sound the same.
Need a replacement transmission? Quality transmissions are hard to find. Free estimate to your email.It sure sounds like it is in limp mode to me, but why? It could be any of a dozen or so solenoids and sensors used with the transmission. Likewise, it could also be the transmission control module or the engine control module, itself.
Frankly, it seems more like an electronic issue to me than anything else. As you noted yourself, the Cube starts and runs nicely, it just won’t get out of its own way — limp mode.
To find out, if you can stand the slow-speed drive, take your Cube to a local dealership (yes they tend to be higher-priced, but they do have all the latest diagnostic software and that’s what you need right now). Let them know what happened and be sure you ask them, before you leave, possibly, to have a diagnostic scanner hooked up to your Cube and a diagnostic routine run — ask the service manager to handle this personally (you will get a hearing, believe me as dealerships are sensitive to customer satisfaction — it is a key metric. Most people don’t think this is true. However, it is, really!).
Be certain you wait for the results and I will bet you a jelly doughnut that you will find codes flashing up that indicate a sensor or solenoid has failed.
The reason I suspect it is an electronic piece is the nature of the failure. You drove the Cube 3,000-plus miles and in that time nothing happened. Then, you park at home and the next morning, bingo. If a transmission mechanical part had failed, you would likely be hearing the whining more loudly or there would be another indication such as slipping.
There’s a silver lining to this. The Cube is a great small car that should get you another 100,000 miles easily, so it is worth the $400 or so to replace and fix the electronic part. Let me know what happens. I am interested to see what the shop says.
Fair Replacement Transmission Cost by Vehicle
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Fair Remanufactured Transmission Price Ranges by Transmission Model Updated May 1, 2018
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