10 Most Common Transmission Problems & How to Fix Them

  1. Lack of Response
  2. Whining, Clunking and Humming
  3. Leaking/Low Fluid
  4. Grinding or Shaking
  5. Burning Smell
  6. Refuses to Go Into Gear
  7. Check Engine Light
  8. Transmission Noisy in Neutral
  9. Gears Slipping
  10. Dragging Clutch
  11. OBD2 Trouble Codes
  12. Get the Problem Diagnosed

Your car’s transmission is a complex mechanical system that controls the application of power from the engine to the driveshaft. It experiences more wear and tear over time than most other parts of your vehicle due to the heat and friction produced by their many moving and interacting components. At the bottom of this page you can find a Fair Replacement Cost Guide on popular models of transmission.

Need a replacement transmission? Get an estimate for replacement transmissions and local installation. Look up your transmission model by vehicle make and model.

What Transmission Do I Have?

Transmission repairs or replacements are inconvenient, stressful and typically quite expensive, so it’s a good idea to pay attention to any activity that seems unusual. Adhering to the recommended maintenance procedures and schedule intended to prevent problems will help your transmission last longer, perform better and require fewer repairs over its lifespan.

Major issues are bound to arise if your transmission is not well maintained and/or symptoms of a problem are not checked by a professional soon after they develop.

What Transmission Do I Have?

Year
Make
Model
Engine Size

How to Diagnose the Problem

Automatic Transmission Cut AwayDetermining what problem(s) your car has may seem like an impossible task, especially to the untrained eyes and ears of the average driver. It may be helpful to think of your car’s inner workings as similar to that of the human body.

To diagnose car problems yourself, try to think of it in terms of your own body. For instance, if your stomach begins to hurt without warning, you’ll probably start thinking of the last thing you ate in order to figure out why you are in pain.

A similar type of thinking goes into diagnosing car trouble. Problems that involve mechanical systems typically exhibit distinct sensations and sounds that act as indicators that a certain process isn’t working the way it is intended to.

As soon as you recognize that something seems a bit “off” with your vehicle’s functionality, it’s time to start considering the problem and finding a way to fix it.

That said, if you’re having some car trouble, it is important to know what the most common types of transmission problems are so that you can easily diagnose them and get them fixed. Here is a list of 10 symptoms of transmission trouble and what signs you should look for.

Lack of Response or Shifting Delay

Ever notice that while driving that the car hesitates or refuses to go into gear? If you have, then there is definitely something wrong. The moment a driver shifts from park to drive the car should immediately go into the proper gear. For automatic transmissions, you might notice that when shifting into drive or park that there is a delay before you feel the gear engage. This is usually a transmission-based concern.

Manual transmissions can have the same lacking response issue, but after shifting into gear the engine’s RPMs will surge, but the car won’t move as fast as the engine sounds like it’s going. This is usually caused by a clutch that needs to be replaced, but may sometimes point to a more severe problem.

Related:

Whining, Clunking and Humming

It’s impossible to say exactly what your car will sound like when there is trouble with your transmission, but one thing is for sure, you’ll get a “I haven’t heard that sound before” feeling when you notice it. The sounds that are produced vary widely between different makes and models, but the best way to describe them is that you’ll probably hear a humming, buzzing or whining noise.

Manual transmissions will emit sounds that can be described as being slightly more mechanical, louder and abrupt sounding. A clunking sounds when you shift gears almost always lies within a transmission, while constant velocity joins or the differential may be the source if the clunking is coming from the underside of your car.

As mentioned already, it is always best to get the problem diagnosed and repaired as soon as possible and not wait until later when you “find the time” or “have the money”. If you wait until later what would have been a relatively inexpensive repair can easily become a much more costly one.

Leaking/Low Fluid

New Automatic Transmission FluidA leak is probably the most recognizable symptom and should be repaired as soon as possible. Letting the fluid leak is one of the most common causes transmission break down. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is the life-blood of a transmission as it lubricates, cleans and conditions the seals and acts as hydraulic fluid. Without it (or even if it gets too low), the engine will seize up and stop working completely.

ATF is bright red in color, clear and smells somewhat sweet if everything is working correctly. If this is what you find on your driveway, then all that needs to be fixed is the hole. If the fluid is dark and/or has a burnt smell then it’s time to get the fluid changed or flushed and repairs might be required.

To check if you’re running low on fluid, take your car for a short drive to warm it up and then lift the hood and read the dipstick (be sure the vehicle is on level ground). Unlike motor oil, transmission fluid is not burned off or consumed by a car so if the level is low then there is a leak somewhere that must be patched. It is recommended to top up the fluid anyway even if the leak still exists to make sure there is enough fluid for the transmission to function properly until you get it fixed.

Complete Guide: Transmission Fluid Leak Causes & Repair Cost.

To check the fluid level for a manual transmission, you must check at the transmission case (usually through the fill plug) – not with a dipstick under the hood.

Grinding or Shaking

A car is supposed to run smoothly and without any shaking, or jerking, and there is not supposed to be any grinding sounds. These all suggest that there is a problem with the gears. Manual transmissions commonly indicate problems by making a grinding noise or feeling when you shift into a gear. If the grinding occurs after engaging the clutch and shifting, this can be sign that the clutch may need to be replaced or adjusted. That said, it can also point towards several other issues including damaged or worn out gear synchronizes.

Automatic transmissions act a little differently. Instead of making a grinding noise, you will likely feel it take some time to wiggle into gear at first instead of the typical smooth transitions. As the problem gets worse, the transitions into the next gear become more jarring and involve more shaking. There are a few other reasons for grinding or shaking, but the appropriate course of action is still to have it inspected and serviced.

Burning Smell

Sign of Transmission ProblemsAny burning smell coming from your car is a cause for concern. Overheating transmission fluid is one of the causes of a burning smell. Transmission fluid helps keep the parts lubricated and cooled so that they don’t get worn out and damaged.

If the fluid breaks down, the system runs too hot which it results in increased friction and corrosive activity as well as the build up of additional sludge and debris. If this is not taken care of, the transmission will eventually damage itself enough to break down completely. The end result is an expensive replacement. Common causes include low fluid level or using the incorrect brand/type of fluid. To check for these, see the instructions in the section on Low/Leaking Fluid above.

Refuses to Go Into Gear

If the car will not shift after engaging the clutch and trying to move the stick, take a look at the fluid to make sure that it is at the right level. Other causes include using the incorrect thickness (type) of fluid and the clutch linkage or shift cables needing adjustment. The source of the problem could also be the vehicle’s computer system.

If you’ve already inspected the fluid, you can try resetting it. To do this, detach the battery and let it stand for thirty minutes. Then, reattach and allow the system to reset itself. This usually takes around thirty minutes. If this doesn’t work either, then it’s time to take it to a mechanic.

Check Engine Light

Check Engine LightThe check engine light located on your car’s dashboard is a great early indicator that something is about to go wrong (or already has) with your car, and in particular with your transmission. While the light turns on for a number of reasons other than transmission issues, it very important not to ignore this helpful warning sign.

There are sensors placed in many areas of a car’s engine that alert the computer if it senses unusual activity coming from a particular process. The sensors on a transmission can pick up on the slightest jerks and vibrations than you are not able to see or feel.

Take the vehicle in and have it inspected. They can take look and immediately tell what is happening through the use of similar diagnostic tools and the car’s computer. You can also view a list of common transmission diagnostic trouble codes.

If you’d like to diagnose the problem yourself (and possibly save yourself a trip to the mechanic’s) you can buy a diagnostic scan tool that is plugged into the instrument panel on the driver’s side and return a code that corresponds to the part that needs attention. Whatever you do, do not assume that the check engine light can wait because it might be warning you of a serious problem in the near future.

Related:
O/D Off Light Flashing On and Off

Transmission Noisy in Neutral

Luckily, a transmission that is noisy (goes “bump”) when it is in neutral could have an inexpensive, simple solution such as adding some fluid or changing it. This could do the trick, as it does for several other issues on this list. If that doesn’t work, the transmission may require professional attention to replace worn out parts, most commonly the bearings, worn gear teeth or the reverse idler gear.

Gears Slipping

A transmission stays in a designated gear until a shift is performed by the driver (manual) or the computer (automatic). If the transmission is spontaneously slipping in an out of gear (or simply popping into neutral) while driving, I don’t need to tell you that this is a serious safety risk. When you need to step on the gas to avoid a dangerous situation, you need power delivered to the wheels, end of story. The cause can be the link that holds the gears is worn or broken. Get your car inspected and repaired as soon as possible.

Dragging Clutch

A dragging clutch describes the symptom experienced by manual transmissions that involves the clutch disk failing to disengage the flywheel when the clutch pedal is pressed. The clutch is still spinning with the engine which makes it anywhere from difficult to impossible to change gears. This difficulty is accompanied by a grinding noise each time you try to change gears.

Fortunately, this problem is considerably less expensive to repair than many other issues. More often than not, the cause of this is too much slack in the clutch pedal. With too much slack available, the linkage between the clutch disk and pedal can’t pull the clutch disk away from the flywheel.

Has your transmission completely failed? Here are your 8 options to repair, replace, junk it, etc.

How Much Does a Remanufactured Transmission Cost?

On average, a remanufactured transmission will cost between $1,300 and $3,400, depending on the make and model of your vehicle. The cost of labor to install it is in addition to the price of the unit and will typically run between $400 and $800.

It is more expensive to replace your transmission with a reman than to have your transmission rebuilt for almost all makes & models.

However, if there is significant internal damage, the additional components and time required to get it back on the road may cause the final price of a transmission rebuild to be higher than a remanufactured transmission.

Here are the other differences between rebuilt vs. remanufactured transmissions.

Conclusion

It is important to keep up a regular maintenance schedule for your car. Many times major expensive repairs can be avoided if the vehicle is properly maintained. This is especially true if you notice something unusual. The car should be taken in immediately for service.

Brushing up on your knowledge of transmissions (at least the basics) is highly recommended as it can help you save money by avoiding costly inspections and doing simple procedures such as changing transmission fluid yourself as well as making you knowledgeable enough to avoid being over-repaired, over charged or simply ripped off.

Need a replacement transmission? Get an estimate for replacement transmissions and local installation. Look up your transmission model by vehicle make and model.

What Transmission Do I Have?

More Information by Transmission Type

Reman Transmission Pricing Table

Problems by Make & Model

 

Full Transmission DTC Codes Table

 

Over to You

Which of these problems are you experiencing?

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Timi S Kegel
1 year ago

When I start driving before my car shifts to the next gear it starts grinding and the locks up.

Anonymous
1 year ago

I put my vehicle in the gear and it doesn’t go anywhere but it feels like it’s under load but then I put in neutral rocket back and forth and something disengages and then it put it then I put it back in gear and it works fine but will cause that

Mark Cornett
2 years ago

Put it in reverse and back up it’s like hitting the brakes as you go the harder it stops

William greene
2 years ago

I have a 2006 Chevy equinox when I put the car in gear it will drive if I stop at a red light or a stop sign the car will not accelerate I had to turn the car off and start it back up again what could be wrong

William greene
2 years ago

The car drives when I stop at a red light or a stop sign the car will not accelerate I had to turn the car off and restart it as a 2006 Chevy equinox

Daniel Harris
2 years ago

I checked my car error codes after my check engine, VSC, and TRAC lights came on. P0776 and P2714 appeared. Is there any advice? TIA.

Anonymous
2 years ago

The check engine light is on it has a photo of transmission or motor in the indicator window it never goes out and when l try to put it in reverse are drive it hesitates some and go in gear but don’t hear. Noises its ford focus 2012 but do hear something like speakers popping electric sounds like a shortage in the dashboard.

Rita Johnson
2 years ago

Honda civic 2005, is stuck in 3rd gear

Anonymous
2 years ago

runing hard like not in right rge

Stuart
2 years ago

gear selector signal obscure

Janet
2 years ago

It will move in reverse but not drive

Anonymous
2 years ago

My vehicle is a 1985. Your tool only takes 87 n later

Anonymous
2 years ago

I have no reverse n no fourth gear

Tim hardin
2 years ago

E 350 ford van 6.0 diesel changed the transmission main computer dash cluster still does the same thing drive locks the back wheels up for a few seconds may get few days may get few miles it’s getting where I’m afraid to drive it

Tim hardin
2 years ago

Locks up going down the road for three seconds shift into neutral back to drive works for a mile or two maybe even twenty speratic

Ihor
3 years ago

P 0921 error
7 gears doesn’t work

Ihor
3 years ago

Error p0921
7 gears doesn’t work

Aaron
3 years ago

Well I bought my 2006 Ford explorer lxt 4.0 liter V -6 4×4 with the 5R55S automatic transmission on a hunch that the seller told me he had never had any issues nor had the transmission ever shown signs of problems nor failure so I did a a little research and found out that there’s a reset for the transmission and my performed reset they’re in the guy’s driveway he thought he had a bad transmission but I didn’t add up to me transmission usually give you some kind of warning before this up and fail so after performing the reset my hunch paid off the Ford factory reset where you turn the key to the on position press in on the brake peddle and shift the transmission lever into neutral turn the key to the off position wait at least 30 seconds then shift the transmission back into park and turn the key back to the on position and wait about a minute then turn the key to the off position and immediately turn the key back start the vehicle and it worked for a couple weeks during which the transmission worked flawlessly shifted smooth as butter then I parked it for the night came out started it up went to put it into gear and after doing so the vehicle once again did nothing in any gear forward or reverse so I did the same reset and it worked for about 21/2 weeks then the same thing parked it for the night came out and put it into gear and no movement so I I performed the reset once again and it worked the whole time there was no engine check light ever on or wrench light nor any DTC codes other than low battery but the vehicle started every time no hesitation at all anyway I drove it for about another week and it happened once again but this time the reset didn’t work and nothing changed so I checked the fluid it was a little dark but didn’t smell burnt at all so I drained the pan and changed the filter there was a little bit of hair like looking substance stuck on the transmission pan magnet but for the transmission having 170,000 miles on it I was expecting a hell of a lot more debris than what was there put about 6 and a half quarts Mercon 5 back into it through the torque bit screw hole in the center of the drain plug then went to lower it back down with my floor jack and the damn truck popped off the floor jack sending the floor jack up into the radiator so I end d up having to buy a new radiator and the two new transmission fluid cooler line fittings which by the he way do not make the same mistake I did by unscrewing both factory line fittings back to back because once you unscrew it he old factory fitting which are supposed to be quick connect fittings but I bought both style tools to release the cooler line out of the fitting it wasn’t happening poor design by Ford and the fact that ford’s factory fitting are pressed in the radiator so once you unscrew the fitting completely out they will not screws back into the bottom of the radiator and only one company carries the replacement fittings each fitting is about $30 any way now my explorer has been sitting for over a month and I can’t figure out why the transmission refuses to engage when the shift lever is placed into gear so I decided to pull the transmission pan once again and pull the solenoid pack housing out and perform a bench test and then he sole kids work fine now I’m about to dig a little deeper into the transmission and pull the entire valve body out so I can take it to the transmission shop and have them perform a air check on the valves in the body since the cost of the gasket and plate to perform this test will run me about $20 more than the transmission shop is going to charge me to perform a h test themselves any suggestions because if it’s not the valves and or valve body then Im going to have to pull the pump out of the transmission and that’s getting into the transmission a little farther than I feel comfortable going into

Amy Levi Mccarter
3 years ago

The car starts fine but won’t engage when shifting into gear and makes a burring sound when put into park

rafael barrett
3 years ago

I had my transmission rebuild last year, now the check ingine light comes on and the message is your transmission need service, I can’t get it smog with the light on. Took it back and the mechanic said the fault was the speed of sensor, he replaced it and the same problem. I took it to a foreign car repair shop and was told the TCM is not communicating. Send it out for repair and it cost me $275.00. I was told it had a hardware issue. Reinstall it and after 30 miles the check ingine liy came back on. But the car runs and change gears, don’t now what to do. Lost

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